06 March 2015

Costuras Inglesas :: French Seams


Hoje vou mostrar-vos como eu faço costuras inglesas. Costuras inglesas (curiosamente, em inglês chamam-se French seams) são costuras que são cosidas duas vezes: primeiro pelo direito e só depois pelo avesso, o que significa que as extremidades do tecido ficam escondidas. Dão mais trabalho do que as costuras normais, mas o resultado é resistente e muito elegante. Resultam bem em linhas direitas ou ligeiramente curvas e são especialmente indicadas para tecidos transparentes, mas eu, desde que aprendi a fazê-las, uso-as sempre que posso.

Today I'm going to show you how I sew French seams. French seams are sewn twice: first on the right side of the fabric and then on the wrong side of the fabric, which means that the raw edges get completely enclosed. There are a bit more work than regular seams but the result is hardwearing and very elegant. They work well in either straight or slightly curved lines and they're especially suited for sheer fabrics, but ever since I learned how to make them, I use them at every opportunity.

1. Visto que as costuras inglesas são compostas por duas costuras, há que começar por calcular os dois valores/margens de costura. Gosto que a segunda costura fique com 0,5 cm (aprox. 1/4''), por isso, para ficar a saber o valor da primeira costura, subtraio este número (0,5 cm) ao valor de costura original. No caso deste vestido, os valores de costura são 1,5 cm, por isso tenho de fazer a primeira costura com 1 cm e a segunda com 0,5 cm. Em polegadas: costura original 5/8'', primeira costura com 3/8" e segunda com 1/4''.

1. Since French seams are made of two seams, first you must calculate your two seam allowances. I like for the second seam to measure 0,5 cm (1/4'') so, in order to find out the first seam allowance, I subtract this number (0,5 cm or 1/4'') to the original seam allowance. In the case of this dress, the original seam allowance was 1,5 cm (5/8''), which means that I must sew the first seam 1 cm  (3/8'') from the edge of the fabric and the second seam 0,5 cm (1/4'') from the edge.



2. Montar a peça avesso com avesso (com o direito para fora — pode parecer contra-intuitivo, mas é assim que funciona) e colocar alfinetes. Coser a primeira costura com ponto corrido apertado (neste caso escolhi 2.0). Passar a ferro a costura tal como foi cosida (isto ajuda a estabilizar os pontos e faz com que as costuras fiquem mais direitas e bem acabadas).

2. Assemble the piece with wrong sides together (the right side of the fabric should be facing you —  this may seem counter-intuitive but it's just how it works) and pin in place. Sew the first seam with a running stitch and a short stitch length (for this dress I chose 2.0). Press the seams as they have been sewn (this stabilises the stitching and gets rid of any puckering).



3. Aparar a extremidade do tecido o mais próximo possível da costura (cerca de 2 mm).

3. Trim the seam allowances as close to the stitching line as you can (about 2 mm or a scant 1/8'').



4. Abrir as costuras com o ferro (o facto de as costuras serem tão estreitas dificulta bastante o processo, por isso às vezes salto este passo).

4. Press the seam allowances open (the fact that the seams are now so narrow makes this hard so I sometimes skip this step).



5. Virar a peça para o avesso, alinhar bem as costuras e passá-las a ferro. 

5. Turn the piece inside out and then fold the seams with right sides together and press.





6. Coser a 0,5 cm (1/4'') da extremidade do tecido. Voltar a engomar as costuras. No caso deste vestido, depois tombei as costuras na direcção das costas. Já está!

6. Sew 0,5 cm (1/4'') from the edge of the fabric. Press again. In this particular dress, I then pressed the seams towards the back. That's it!

39 comments:

  1. You've made my day, Constança... I've just discovered with you my mummy was right when she called (in Spanish) "costuras inglesas" the French seams. This brings me such good memories... I searched for lots of tutorials of these kind of seams, but they always called them "French seams" and I ended up thinking we called them wrong in our family.
    I'm glad to see Spain and Portugal have so many things in common. Especially the "costuras inglesas".

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Fatima, the French also call them "coutures anglaises", so it seems like we southerners are winning! :) Thank you for your lovely comment, it has made my day.

      Delete
    2. "cucitura inglese" in italian!!

      Delete
    3. Really, Elisa??! Hahaha that's exactly what I said then, we southern europeans are all in agreement! They are called English seams!! ;)

      Delete
  2. Que tutorial espetacular! Obrigada!
    Antes de ter comprado a serger também usava costuras inglesas em algumas das roupas que fazia. Ficava sempre tudo tão perfeitinho!
    O vestido ficou girissimo!
    PS. Acho que conheço esse tecido e esse bordado inglês... ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hahaha Marta, pois claro que conheces! Estás a ficar muito íntima do meu stash! ;)

      Delete
  3. A minha avó que me ensinou de tudo um pouco, infelizmente não chegou a ensinar-me a coser... :(... Mas ela fazia sempre costuras inglesas!! Eu não me lembro disso, mas os teus posts incentivaram-me a tentar e há uns tempos que as faço sempre que posso. Quando a minha tia as viu disse: "Olha, fazes bainhas como a tua avó!!! Primeiro pelo direito e depois do avesso! Onde aprendeste isto?? Como se chama mesmo??" :D Na altura também estava com a dúvida no nome!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Muito útil! Obrigada. E que bonito, tudo!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Adoro french seams! (Ou coutures anglaises, os franceses e os ingleses não se entendem 😜) também fazia antes de ter a corta e cose, e também fazia muito as mock french seams (costura normal do avesso, mas em vez de aparar os valores de costura são metidos para dentro e cosidos juntos). Quando faço french seams gosto depois de pespontar pelo direito, principalmente em calções, ficam com ar mesmo pro! Bjinhos!

    ReplyDelete
  6. Adoro french seams! (Ou coutures anglaises, os franceses e os ingleses não se entendem 😜) também fazia antes de ter a corta e cose, e também fazia muito as mock french seams (costura normal do avesso, mas em vez de aparar os valores de costura são metidos para dentro e cosidos juntos). Quando faço french seams gosto depois de pespontar pelo direito, principalmente em calções, ficam com ar mesmo pro! Bjinhos!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Esse tipo de costura é ótimo mesmo para trabalhos onde não se coloca forro.
    Seu tutorial ficou muito bom.
    Beijos

    ReplyDelete
  8. Tb uso algumas vezes mas confesso que sou mais para o preguiçoso... Só quando quero uma peça mesmo perfeita é que me dou ao trabalho.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Óptimo tutorial! Aprendi a fazer, mas ainda não tinha aplicado (para dizer a verdade, já nem me lembrava!) Fica mesmo perfeito!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Que tutorial tão bom!
    Eu também gosto de usar costura inglesa, dependendo do tecido e da peça e ando a testar nas mangas (já tentei, mas não fiquei convencida). Será que resulta?!
    Ah! o vestido é lindo :-)

    ReplyDelete
  11. It looks so neat! I like to do some sewing but still a begginer. Thank you very much for sharing this information with the great tutorial. Beautiful dress.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Não sei porque mas não consigo fazer... eu costuro tudo pelo lado do avesso. Podia dar-me uma ajudinha, por favor? Adorava compreender melhor este processo... Obrigada!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Agora estou esclarecida, obrigada Concha! Para semana vou começar a saga da roupa de primavera-verão para as meninas :) A Inês já pediu calções e vou utilizar estas costuras para os tornar perfeitos. Obrigada pela partilha

    ReplyDelete
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