tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12839511371087756862024-03-19T21:46:34.294+13:00Saídos da ConchaConchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.comBlogger1524125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-55935074374132432132016-05-13T11:49:00.000+12:002016-05-13T11:49:27.629+12:00New Blog!From now on you can find me over at<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://constancacabral.com/blog/">https://constancacabral.com/blog/</a></span></b><br />
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See you there!Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com227tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-15664353285884461992015-05-03T16:16:00.000+12:002015-05-03T16:58:31.073+12:00Pausa :: Break<div style="text-align: justify;">
Ando há muito tempo com a sensação de que alguma coisa não está a funcionar no meu dia-a-dia. A tristeza e o isolamento que senti durante 2012 e 2013 felizmente desapareceram, mas não me consigo livrar de um enorme peso, de um grande cansaço e de um certo desajustamento em relação à minha vida presente.</div>
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Este blog vai ficar em pausa durante uns tempos. Não vou actualizar a página no Facebook e não me vou forçar a responder a emails. Acho que vou continuar pelo Instagram, porque é o único sítio na internet em que não sinto qualquer tipo de pressão, mas ainda não tenho a certeza.</div>
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Tenho muitos posts fotografados e alinhavados, e é possível que os vá publicando pouco a pouco, mas prefiro ter o blog inactivo e, de vez em quando, escrever umas coisas, do que um blog activo que está sempre a chamar por mim e a fazer-me sentir que estou a falhar.</div>
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Não me apetece escrever sobre isto em pormenor mas, como não gosto de cultivar uma aura de mistério nem tão pouco gerar qualquer tipo de especulação, vou acrescentar algumas palavras.</div>
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Quero viver durante uns tempos sem tecnologias. Ser mãe não é, para mim, especialmente fácil. Sou uma pessoa naturalmente introvertida, que precisa de silêncio e de algum espaço, e o dia-a-dia com crianças e sem apoio familiar tem um efeito esmagador sobre mim. Preciso de me focar, de não sentir pressões adicionais nem sucumbir a distracções. De aprender a lidar com as expectativas, aspirações e exigências da vida contemporânea.</div>
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Sinto-me constantemente sob tensão e, visto que não me apetece ter um colapso nervoso, vou experimentar alterar a maneira como vivo a minha vida.</div>
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Obrigada por me continuarem a acompanhar na minha viagem. Isto não é um adeus — é só um até qualquer dia.</div>
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<i>I've known for a long time that something's not working in my everyday life. The sadness and isolation that I felt during 2012 and 2013 have subsided but I haven't been able to shake off a strong weight over my shoulders, a great tiredness and a sort of maladjustment in regard to my present life.</i></div>
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<i>This blog is going to be still for a while. I'm not going to update my Facebook page and not going to force myself to deal with email. I might keep playing with Instagram because it's the only place online where I don't feel any pressure, but I can't say for sure yet.</i></div>
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<i>I've got lots of blog posts that are already photographed and half put together and I might publish something here from time to time, but I'd rather have an inactive blog that sometimes gets updated that an active blog that's always asking for more and that makes me feel like I'm failing all the time.</i></div>
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<i>I'm not in the mood to write in detail about this but, since I don't like to cultivate an air of mystery nor do I want to generate unnecessary speculation, I'm going to add a few words.</i></div>
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<i>I want to live for a while with no technologies. Being a mother isn't particularly easy for me. I'm a natural introvert and I need a fair amount of silence and space. My day-to-day with children and no family support has been quite overwhelming, frankly. I need to focus and I don't need any additional distractions or pressures. I must learn how to deal better with all the expectations, aspirations and demands of modern life.</i></div>
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<i>I feel I'm spreading myself too thin and since I don't want to have a nervous breakdown, I'm going to try and alter the way I live my life.</i></div>
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<i>Thank you for being here with me along this journey. This isn't goodbye — it's just "see you later".</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com157tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-38267536634030498332015-04-22T14:22:00.002+12:002015-04-22T14:22:43.503+12:00Vestido de Baptizado :: Christening Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdLGWem744E/VTRTAj2Uz4I/AAAAAAAAVeg/kURE-UZsqZw/s1600/IMG_7688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LdLGWem744E/VTRTAj2Uz4I/AAAAAAAAVeg/kURE-UZsqZw/s1600/IMG_7688.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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Durante as últimas semanas andei ocupada a fazer o vestido de baptizado do Pedro — aliás, todo o "ensemble", porque fiz o vestido propriamente dito, o vestido interior, a touca e o babete (este último não aparece nestas fotografias porque foi feito na véspera do grande dia e, mal foi posto a uso, ficou imediatamente sujo).</div>
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Foi o projecto mais elaborado, ambicioso — e, diria até, um bocadinho presunçoso — em que já me meti. Entrei nele com enormes doses de entusiasmo e inconsciência, sem ter propriamente elaborado um plano de acção meticuloso. O resultado é um vestido que me satisfaz cerca de 80%, mas no qual tenho bastante orgulho. Tentei ser o mais perfeita possível na execução e acabamentos — dentro das limitações da minha <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/03/escolher-uma-maquina-de-costura.html" target="_blank">máquina</a> de 1974, claro. Gosto do vestido? Sim. Adoro o vestido? Não. Gostei de ver o Pedro a ser baptizado com ele? Delirei!</div>
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<i>Over the last few weeks I used up every free minute of my time to sew Pedro's christening gown — actually, I should write "christening outfit", really, because I sewed the dress, the slip, the bonnet and even a bib (which isn't pictured here because I sewed it the night before of the big event and it became soiled two seconds after I put it on Pedro).</i></div>
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<i>This was the most elaborate, ambitious — and even a bit presumptuous — project I've even got myself into. I embarked upon it with a great dose of enthusiasm and naivety, without even having set a meticulous plan of action. The result is a dress that I'm 80% happy with but one that, nonetheless, fills me with a sense of pride. I tried to be as neat as I could in terms of constructing and finishing — within the limitations of my 1974 machine, that is. Do I like the dress? Yes, I do. Do I love the dress? No, I don't. Did I enjoy watching Pedro be christened while wearing it? That gave me the greatest pleasure!</i></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7kNTsEdp0k/VTRTNCMdLHI/AAAAAAAAVes/QopoO3t7hfM/s1600/IMG_7526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7kNTsEdp0k/VTRTNCMdLHI/AAAAAAAAVes/QopoO3t7hfM/s1600/IMG_7526.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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Ora então vamos por partes:</div>
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1. Motivação</div>
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O Tiago e eu fizemos questão de que o Pedro fosse baptizado no país em que nasceu, mas havia o problema do vestido. Era impensável pedir à nossa família que nos enviasse um vestido antigo pelo correio (e se se perdesse?); por outro lado, nem me passou pela cabeça comprar um vestido novo. Posto isto, a única hipótese era ser eu a fazer o vestido. Há um ano assisti a uma aula de "heirloom sewing" na loja Bernina aqui da zona, onde aprendi as técnicas-base de coser rendas e entremeios bordados. Esta primeira abordagem foi fundamental para desmitificar todo o mundo do "heirloom sewing" e proporcionou-me algumas ferramentas para depois aprofundar o assunto sozinha. Durante alguns meses pesquisei vestidos antigos e técnicas modernas e, a dada altura, resolvi não pensar mais e simplesmente comecei a fazer o vestido.</div>
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<i>Let me tell you more:</i></div>
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<i>1. Motivation</i></div>
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<i>Tiago and I were both extremely keen that Pedro should be baptised in the country where he was born... but what about the dress? I didn't have the guts to ask for the family gown to be sent through the post (what if it got lost?) and I didn't consider even for one minute the possibility of buying a new dress. So there was just one option: I had to make it myself. Last year I took an heirloom sewing class at my local Bernina shop, where I learned the basics about sewing laces and embroidered trims. This class was great for demystifying the whole "heirloom sewing" world and gave me a few tools to seek more information on my own. For a few months I researched old dresses and modern techniques and then there came a point where I just had to stop looking and actually start sewing.</i></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ig8Erss2i9A/VTRhRkEfdTI/AAAAAAAAVgE/5ofmld0Xt6w/s1600/IMG_7757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ig8Erss2i9A/VTRhRkEfdTI/AAAAAAAAVgE/5ofmld0Xt6w/s1600/IMG_7757.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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2. Planos e materiais</div>
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Pensei em algumas opções para o vestido e fiz vários esboços, mas o desenho final acabou por ser totalmente determinado pelas limitações dos materiais ao meu dispôr. Queria que o vestido reflectisse a herança cultural do Pedro e que nele constassem elementos portugueses, neozelandeses, de família, de amigos, enfim. Estava determinada a bordar, a branco, um motivo central com corações e flores de Viana e fetos nativos da Nova Zelândia mas, com grande pena minha, isso não chegou a acontecer. Talvez se tivesse começado a fazer o vestido três meses mais cedo...</div>
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Aqui na Nova Zelândia comprei a cambraia branca, assim como o entremeio de renda e o ajour. O folho em bordado inglês foi-me dado pela minha avó e a renda com que debruei o decote e os punhos foi-me oferecida, há uns anos, por uma amiga brasileira. Os dois outros entremeios bordados foram comprados online. Fiz nervuras no peito e nas mangas com uma agulha dupla e utilizei sempre linha de algodão Mettler 60.</div>
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<i>2. Plans and materials</i></div>
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<i>I thought about a few different options but the final design ended up being entirely determined by the limited materials I had at hand. I wanted the dress to be a reflection of Pedro's cultural heritage, with elements that would reference Portugal, New Zealand, family and friends. I was determined to embroider, in white, a central motif with Portuguese folk hearts and flowers and NZ native ferns, but unfortunately I ran out of time. Maybe if I had started working on the dress three months earlier...</i></div>
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<i>Here in NZ I bought the white lawn as well as the lace insertion and the entredeux. The broderie anglaise edging was given to me by my grandmother and the lace edging (or is it tatting?) was a present from a Brazilian friend many years ago. The other two embroidered insertions were bought online. I used a double-needle to make narrow pintucks on the centre front of the dress and on the sleeves and used Mettler 60 cotton thread throughout.</i></div>
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3. Molde</div>
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O molde que usei como base foi o <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1583-babies-1940s-vintage-layette.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity Babies 2629</a>, vista A com mangas C (este molde é uma reprodução de um molde de 1948, e eu já o tinha <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/05/vestido-de-bebe-baby-dress.html" target="_blank">experimentado</a> há uns anos). Comecei por fazer um <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">ensaio</a> para ver se o tamanho 6 meses servia ao Pedro e, visto que ficava mesmo à medida, aumentei o comprimento da saia e avancei para o vestido de baptizado. Mas depois as coisas começaram a complicar-se... Quando já ia a meio do vestido, resolvi começar de novo. Apercebi-me de que seria melhor de fazer um vestido ainda mais comprido, de forma a compensar a quantidade de entremeios que resolvi usar (admito que fui gulosa e optei pela bordagem "more is better" em vez do meu habitual "less is more") e completamente aberto atrás (o molde original tem apenas uma pequena abertura atrás, mas cheguei à conclusão de que não seria nada prática para vestir e despir, nem tão pouco eficaz... o facto de o vestido ser todo aberto atrás permitiu-me pegar no Pedro ao colo de maneira a que a frente do vestido continuasse com um bom cair).</div>
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<i>3. Pattern </i></div>
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<i>I based the dress on <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1583-babies-1940s-vintage-layette.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity Babies 2629</a>, view A with sleeves C (this pattern is a reproduction from a 1948 one and I had already used it a few years <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/05/vestido-de-bebe-baby-dress.html" target="_blank">ago</a>). I started by sewing up a <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">test version</a> in order to check the fit of size 6 months and, since it fit well, I just traced a longer skirt and started making the christening gown. But then things got a little more complicated... When I was already half-way through, I decided to start over. I realised that I should make an even longer dress in order to balance out the amount of insertions I ended up including in the fancy band (I admit I was greedy in wanting to show off all of my pretty trims) and one that had a completely open back (the original pattern features a short placket on the back but I quickly realised that such a small opening wouldn't be very practical when it came to dress and undress the baby, nor would it be very effective... an open back would allow me to handle Pedro much more easily and would prevent bunching up the skirt... I really wanted that fancy band to drape beautifully!).</i></div>
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4. Técnicas</div>
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Comecei por fazer as nervuras com uma agulha dupla e um pé calcador especial (útil, mas nem por sombras obrigatório) em rectângulos de tecido (um grande para o corpo e dois mais pequenos para as mangas), e só depois usei o molde para cortar as peças. As rendas e os bordados foram aplicados com um pé calcador normal, alternando os pontos corrido e zigzag. Consegui utilizar <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">costuras inglesas</a> em tudo, até na inserção das mangas, o que me deixou muito contente. A certa altura debati-me com o facto de as costuras estarem a ficar todas repuxadas mas, depois de ter limpado e oleado a máquina, mudado de agulha e voltado a enfiar a linha, o problema desapareceu. Apesar de gostar muito da minha máquina quarentona, houve alturas em que desejei ardentemente ter uma máquina moderna toda xpto, não vou mentir. Continuo a achar que há máquinas antigas bestiais (e a minha Bernina Record 830 é uma delas), mas para este tipo de "costura fina", suspeito que uma máquina moderna deva dar um jeitão.</div>
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<i>4. Techniques</i></div>
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<i>I pintucked the fabric using a double-needle and a special presser foot (which was useful, but not compulsory) before I even cut out the pattern, which means that I roughly cut one large and two smaller rectangles, pintucked them and only then did I cut out the pattern pieces for the front and for the sleeves. I sewed the laces, the entredeux and the embroidered trims with a regular foot, alternating between straight and zigzag stitching. I managed to French-seam the entire thing, even the sleeves, and that made me feel very happy and smug. I did struggle with puckered seams for a while but after I cleaned and oiled the machine, changed the needle and rethreaded it, things got much easier. Even though I love my 41-year-old machine, there were times when I felt a burning desire for a modern, top-of-the-line sewing machine, I'm not going to lie. I still believe that there are some wonderful vintage sewing machines out there (and my Bernina Record 830 is definitely one of them), but for this kind of "fine sewing" I suspect a modern machine must come in handy.</i></div>
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5. Acessórios</div>
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O vestido interior foi feito com base no mesmo molde, desta vez a vista F com algumas modificações. A touca é baseada num modelo antigo, também com modificações. Para ficar a condizer com o vestido, cosi-lhe umas quantas nervuras e apliquei-lhe um dos entremeios bordados que usei na barra da saia, assim como a mesma renda com que debruei o decote e os punhos.</div>
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<i>5. Accessories</i></div>
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<i>The slip was cut using view F the same pattern, with a few alterations. The bonnet was based on a vintage pattern, with a few tweaks of my own. In order for it to match the dress, I included one of the trims I used on the skirt, as well as a few pintucks and the same lace edging used on the collar and sleeves.</i></div>
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6. Balanço</div>
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O que me aborrece:</div>
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- O facto de o entremeio mais largo da barra do vestido não ser tão branco como os restantes (o quarto onde coso é um bocado escuro e só me apercebi do contraste quando vi estas fotografias).</div>
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- Não ter conseguido fazer o famigerado bordado — o vestido foi todo desenhado em função desse bordado e, se tivesse decidido logo à partida que não teria tempo para o fazer, acho que teria desenhado um vestido diferente.</div>
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- Ter estado tão limitada com os materiais.</div>
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- Ter cosido o vestido à pressa (por culpa minha) e com inúmeras e frustrantes interrupções (perfeitamente normais... fazem parte de ter dois filhos pequenos).</div>
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O que me alegra:</div>
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- Fiz um vestido de baptizado! </div>
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- Esforcei-me imenso e fartei-me de aprender.</div>
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- A filha de uma amiga minha ganhou dois vestidos novos (depois mostro-vos os ensaios em pormenor noutro post).</div>
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Agora estou a precisar de umas férias! </div>
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<i>6. Final assessment</i></div>
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<i>Things that bother me:</i></div>
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<i>- The fact that the widest eyelet insertion on the fancy band is not as white as the other trims (my sewing room is rather dark and I only noticed the contrast when I looked at these photos).</i></div>
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<i>- Not having done the whitework — especially because that was the "raison d'être" of this dress. Had I decided straight away that I wouldn't have time to make the embroidery, I think I would have designed a different dress.</i></div>
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<i>- Being so limited by the materials I had.</i></div>
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<i>- Having sewn the dress in such a race against time (my fault entirely) and the constant and oh so frustrating interruptions (that are perfectly natural and come with having two young children).</i></div>
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<i>Things that make me happy:</i></div>
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<i>- I made a christening gown!</i></div>
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<i>- I strove to do my best and learned so much.</i></div>
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<i>- My friend's little daughter will get two new dresses (I'll talk about my trials runs in detail on another blog post).</i></div>
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<i>Now I need a break!</i></div>
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<br />Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com128tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-52297659272769802952015-04-07T20:31:00.001+12:002015-04-07T20:50:53.977+12:00Costura de Legado :: Heirloom Sewing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Após meses de pesquisa — uma palavra muito pomposa para descrever as horas que tenho passado na internet e mergulhada em livros, em busca de inspiração e de técnicas avançadas de costura —, comecei finalmente a fazer o vestido de baptizado do Pedro. Está a ser o meu projecto de costura mais ambicioso até à data, aquele que está a mexer mais com os meus nervos e, simultaneamente, aquele que me está a entusiasmar mais. Claro que estou entusiasmada: é a única oportunidade que tenho para fazer um vestido para os meus filhos!</div>
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Este é um vestido feito a pensar no Pedro, mas também em muitos outros bebés que um dia venham a usá-lo. Espero que venha a ser emprestado várias vezes e que dure mais de uma geração, e que seja sempre acompanhado da história do primeiro bebé que o vestiu, o tal bebé que nasceu num jardim na Nova Zelândia.</div>
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Tenho-me divertido bastante a partilhar os passos da construção do vestido no meu <a href="https://instagram.com/conchacabral/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>. A seguir ao baptizado, faço um post detalhado sobre a motivação, o processo e o resultado. Até lá — agora tenho de ir coser a todo o vapor!</div>
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<i>After months of research — that's a rather pompous word for all the hours I spent online and with my head buried in books, searching for inspiration and heirloom sewing techniques —, I've finally started making Pedro's christening gown. This is my most ambitious sewing project to date, the one that's been playing up with my nerves the most but also the most exciting yet. I mean, how could I not be excited? It's my only chance to sew a dress for my son!</i></div>
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<i>It's a dress made for Pedro but also for all the babies who will hopefully wear it one day in the future. I'm hoping that it will be borrowed several times and that it lasts more than one generation, and that it's always accompanied by the story of the baby who wore it for the first time, the baby who was born in a garden in New Zealand. </i></div>
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<i>It's been fun to share the various steps of its construction over at <a href="https://instagram.com/conchacabral/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>. After the christening I'll write a detailed post about the motivation, process and result. Now I've got to get back to sewing at full-speed!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com149tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-10366658564153780312015-03-30T22:06:00.000+13:002015-03-30T22:06:11.951+13:00Por Aqui :: Around Here<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Por aqui estamos em pleno Outono, com tudo o que de bom e mau isso implica. Março é o meu mês preferido nos antípodas (equivale a Setembro no hemisfério norte) e costuma ser um mês de extremos: frio, calor, tempestades, chuva torrencial, sol radioso. Mas é a luz dourada que mais me atrai nesta altura do ano, bem como as cores das folhas das árvores, as bagas nos arbustos e a abundância de fruta e legumes.</div>
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Temos aproveitado ao máximo os dias bons para para brincar no jardim, passear, ir apanhar amoras e maçãs à beira da estrada... Infelizmente os meus passeios a pé depois do jantar já acabaram (não gosto nada de passear no escuro) e a época das febres já chegou cá a casa. </div>
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Uma nova estação traz novos ritmos, novas actividades e novas conquistas. Bem-vindo, Outono!</div>
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<i>Around here it's autumn, with all the good and the bad this it entails. March is my favourite month in the antipodes (it's the equivalent of September in the northern hemisphere) and it's usually a month of contrasts: cold, hot, stormy, rainy, sunny. But it's the golden light that attracts me the most, as well as the leaves changing colour, the berries and the abundance of fruit and vegetables.</i></div>
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<i>We've been making the most of the sunny days by playing in the garden, exploring new places, picking blackberries and apples on road verges... Unfortunately my daily walks after dinner have come to an end as I don't like walking after dark, and fever season is upon us.</i></div>
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<i>A new season brings new rhythms, new activities and new milestones. Welcome, autumn!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com142tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-49630784323900066302015-03-25T11:04:00.001+13:002015-03-25T11:04:32.493+13:00Three Baby Jumpsuits :: Três Macaquinhos de Bebé<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Acho que encontrei o meu molde preferido de roupa de bebé: o Simplicity 8989 de 1970. O Pedro está a precisar de roupa de meia estação (algo que tape as pernas mas que não seja demasiado quente), por isso usei este molde para fazer-lhe três macaquinhos diferentes. O tamanho do molde é 1/2 ano e serve perfeitamente a este bebé rechonchudo de quase 8 meses.</div>
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<i>I think I've found my favourite baby sewing pattern: Simplicity 8989 from 1970. Pedro is in need of some autumn clothes (something that covers up his legs but which isn't too warm) so I used this pattern to whip up three different jumpsuits for him. The pattern is sized "1/2 year" and it fits this almost 8-month-old chubby baby perfectly.</i></div>
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Fiz o primeiro numa popelina em xadrez escocês escolhida pelo Rodrigo (nem imaginam como ele ficou orgulhoso quando viu o resultado). O Tiago comentou que o Pedro, assim vestido, parece que vai para o boogie woogie... quando lhe disse que o molde era de 1970, ele não se mostrou nada admirado. Significará isto que o macaquinho ficou demasiado retro? Eu acho que ficou bem engraçado, com um certo ar de bibe de colégio. Agora que olho para ele, acho que deveria ter cortado aquelas presilhas na cintura em viés...</div>
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<i>I made the first one in a plaid poplin chosen by Rodrigo (he was so proud when he saw the resulting outfit!). When Tiago first saw it, he commented that Pedro was clearly ready to go do the boogie woogie... and he wasn't surprised when I told him that the pattern is from 1970. Does this mean that the jumpsuit is too retro-looking? I think it turned out quite cute, it sort of reminds me of a public school uniform. Now that I'm looking at it again, I wish I had cut those button tabs on the bias...</i></div>
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O segundo foi feito com um tecido às florzinhas. Quando o mostrei ao Tiago, ele expressou as suas dúvidas... um rapaz vestido à menina? Mas acho que o Pedro aguenta perfeitamente este tecido — e vocês, o que acham?</div>
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<i>I chose to make the second jumpsuit in a floral material. When I showed it to Tiago he had his doubts... a boy dressed up like a girl? But I think Pedro can totally pull this off — what about you, do you reckon that it's too girly?</i></div>
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Para fazer o terceiro usei um tecido indiscutivelmente masculino, que me foi enviado pela <a href="http://groovybabyandmama.blogspot.be/" target="_blank">Trine</a> há um ano. Também acho que deveria ter cortado as presilhas de outra maneira — neste caso, com as riscas na horizontal em vez de na vertical.</div>
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Veredito final: gosto imenso deste molde! É fácil e rápido de fazer (mesmo com <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">costuras inglesas</a>) e parece-me muito confortável. O Pedro aprova!</div>
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<i>The third one was was made using a very masculine fabric that <a href="http://groovybabyandmama.blogspot.be/" target="_blank">Trine</a> sent me last year. I should have cut those button tabs differently... they would be much more effective if the stripes were running horizontally instead of vertically.</i></div>
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<i>Final verdict: I love this pattern! It's easy and quick to sew (even with <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">French seams</a>) and it looks very comfortable. Pedro approves!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com49tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-19498733892340864342015-03-17T14:24:00.000+13:002015-03-17T17:57:07.348+13:00Vestido de Praia :: Beach Cover-Up<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Às vezes sinto-me o <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grinch" target="_blank">Grinch</a> da confecção, sempre a pensar "tantos passos! isto demora um tempo louco! enfrentar os moldes, cortar os tecidos, decifrar instruções, engomar, coser, engomar, coser...". O que vale é que fazer roupa é um bocado como passar por um parto: custa mas, quando uma pessoa olha para o resultado, acha que tudo valeu a pena. Aquele fenómeno curioso da memória selectiva também acontece: as partes difíceis são apagadas e só nos lembramos do quanto aprendemos, de como crescemos, de como nos tornámos pessoas melhores...</div>
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É óbvio que estou a exagerar, mas lá que fazer roupa dá uma trabalheira, ai isso dá. Então, se aparentemente me queixo tanto (sempre em silêncio! ou será que não?...), porque é que insisto? Bem, a verdade é que fazer roupa dá imenso gozo. Mesmo que o resultado fique com ar de ter sido feito em casa, mesmo que haja mangas mal embebidas, franzidos que não deveriam existir, bainhas onduladas, pregas inconsistentes... Pegar num bocado de tecido e transformá-lo em algo para vestir é fabuloso. Uma pessoa sente-se poderosa, independente, criadora! Depois, já o disse muitas vezes e repito: o panorama do pronto-a-vestir na NZ é terrível. Sim, todos temos gostos diferentes, lá por eu não gostar não significa que seja feio... Pois claro. Mas este sítio onde vivo é um deserto. Sabem todas aquelas lojas que existem em qualquer rua na Europa? Cá não há uma única e, infelizmente, a alternativa é fraca. Bem, vou parar de dizer mal da NZ, que é um país encantador e cheio de gente boa. Como em Inglaterra praticamente não comprei roupa (aí por outras razões, como o clima e o orçamento), neste momento tenho muito pouca coisa para vestir. Isso significa que, se não consigo comprar, tenho de fazer.</div>
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Ora bem, os meus conhecimentos nesta área são limitados. Não sei alterar moldes, manipular pinças, corrigir ombros, etc. etc., por isso tenho de começar por fazer coisas simples. Em anos passados, fiz uns quantos vestidos (uns com mais uso que outros), uma <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/06/weekender-sunshine-top.html" target="_blank">t-shirt</a> (que hei-de repetir porque a usei imenso), calças de pijama e roupa infantil. Tenho comprado muitos moldes antigos aqui na NZ (espero pôr uma série deles à venda em breve) e resolvi experimentar fazer um balandrau dos anos 80. Vamos então por pontos:<br />
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1. Molde</div>
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Style 4090 (<i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">©</span></span></i> 1984). Eis o que me chamou a atenção: o colarinho e a carcela, as mangas kimono com aquela banda (na versão curta), o facto de ser largo e fresco. E o pormenor de ser fácil de fazer, claro. Os sacos de batatas não precisam de assentar muito bem porque, por definição, não favorecem ninguém. Minto: favorecem as pessoas muito magras, mas eu encontro-me a milhas dessa categoria... Mas a vida são dois dias e o Verão aqui é quente e húmido, e estes vestidos largos são frescos e confortáveis.</div>
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2. Tecido</div>
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Numa cidade perto da minha casa em Inglaterra, havia uma loja de tecidos que era uma autêntica caverna de Ali Babá. Tinha os habituais rolos de tecido, mas havia também uma série de cestos a abarrotar de retalhos, que eram vendidos a peso. Todos os tecidos nesses cestos tinham defeito (alguns pequenos, outros maiores). Este tecido cor-de-rosa com cornucópias cor-de-laranja veio de um desses cestos. É um tecido curioso: muito leve, difícil de coser até (andei às voltas com a tensão da minha máquina e com a pressão do calcador), que muda de cor quando é engomado (quando arrefece volta ao normal). Parece-me ser de algodão, porque não tem nem o cheiro nem o toque do poliester, e não é muito apropriado para um vestido porque é transparente. Mas como eu queria experimentar o molde, mas simultaneamente não me apetecia perder tempo com uma prova em pano cru, decidi usar este tecido. Acho que dá perfeitamente para ser usado como saída de praia.</div>
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3. Alterações</div>
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Normamente descrevo em pormenor as alterações que fiz porque acho que o meu texto poderá vir a ser útil a outras pessoas que comprem o mesmo molde (eu vou sempre espreitar o que já foi feito antes de comprar um molde). No entanto, como este é antigo e raro (não encontro uma única referência a ele na internet), acho que não vale a pena alongar-me. Assim que saltem à vista, as modificações que fiz foram não fazer casas nem pregar botões na carcela, cortar o vestido com um comprimento entre túnica e vestido abaixo do joelho (para tentar contra-balançar o volume) e aplicar um galão na bainha, porque o tecido ao longe parece liso e a barra ajuda a cortar esse efeito.</div>
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4. Notas finais<br />
Em relação às fotografias... há qualquer coisa de ridículo nisto de nos pormos a fazer poses em frente à máquina para mostrarmos a roupa que fizemos e depois publicarmos as imagens na internet. Há quem o consiga fazer muito bem, mas eu? Nem por isso. Ainda pensei mostrar apenas as fotografias do vestido no manequim, mas não há dúvida de que a roupa ganha outra vida quando é vestida, por isso deixo aqui uns outtakes de uma sessão fotográfica que fizemos em cima de uns fardos de palha, durante as nossas férias na costa este da NZ.</div>
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Enfim. Voltando ao vestido, é um saco de batatas muito confortável e vou voltar a fazê-lo, mas para a próxima num tecido melhor. </div>
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<i>Sometimes I feel like I'm the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grinch" target="_blank">Grinch</a> of dressmaking: I'm always thinking things like "so many steps! I can't believe this takes sooo looong! all this dealing with the paper patterns, cutting fabric, deciphering instructions, press, sew, press, sew...". But sewing clothes is a bit like going through labour —it's painful but when you look at the result, you feel like it was all worth it. That curious phenomenon of selective memory also occurs: all the difficult bits are wiped out and you only recall everything you've learned along the way, how much you've grown as a human being, how you're a much better person now...</i><br />
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<i>I'm kidding, of course, but let's all agree that making clothes is indeed a lot of work. So if I keep whining about it (in silence! or maybe not?...) why do I insist on doing it? Well, the fact is that making clothes is great. Even if the resulting garments look homemade, if the sleeves aren't properly set in, if you can spot the odd puckering, if the hems are a bit wavy, if the pleats are inconsistent... Taking a flat piece of fabric and turning it into something you can actually wear is fabulous. You feel powerful, independent, the creator of something! In addition to this and as far as I'm concerned, shopping for clothes in NZ is hard. I know we've all got different tastes and I don't want to say bad things about NZ, as it's a wonderful country filled with good people. But I haven't bought new clothes for years so, at the moment, I haven't got much to wear. That means that, if I can't buy, I must sew.</i><br />
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<i>Well, my skills in this area are very limited, I can't alter a pattern and I am incapable of shifting darts, correcting shoulders, etc. etc., so I have to start by making simple clothes. In past years I've sewn a few dresses (some of which have been worn more than others), a <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/06/weekender-sunshine-top.html">t-shirt</a> (which I must make again because I wore that one until it almost fell apart), pyjama bottoms and children's clothes. I've been buying lots of vintage patterns (I'm hoping to put some up for sale soon) and I decided to try making a 1980s potato sack. Let me tell you all about it:</i><br />
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<i>1. Pattern</i><br />
<i>Style 4090 (<span style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">©</span></span></span> 1984). Here's what caught my eye: the collar and placket, the kimono sleeves and that band (in the shorter version of the sleeves), the fact that it's loose and therefore cool. And, of course, the fact that it's easy to sew. Potato sacks don't have to fit very well because they aren't flattering on anyone. No, I'm lying: they do look great on skinny women but since I'm miles away from that category... But you know what? Life is short and summers in NZ are hot and humid, and dresses like this one are cool and comfortable to wear.</i><br />
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<i>2. Fabric</i><br />
<i>In a city near my house in England, there was a fabric shop that was a real Ali Baba cave. In addition to the usual rolls of fabric, there were these baskets with remnants that were sold by weight (every remnant had some kind of flaw). This fabric came from one of those baskets. It features orange paisleys on a hot pink background and it's a funny sort of material: very lightweight, quite hard to sew (I had to mess around with both the tension in my machine and the pressure of the foot) and it changes colour when it's pressed (as soon as it cools down it goes back to normal). It looks like cotton to me because it doesn't smell or feel like polyester, but I can't be sure, and it's not really appropriate for a dress because it's sheer. But I really wanted to try out this pattern and I wasn't feeling like making a toile out of, you know, muslin, so I went with it anyway. I think it's perfectly acceptable as a beach cover-up.</i><br />
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<i>3. Alterations</i><br />
<i>Usually I write about all the alterations I've made to the pattern I'm blogging about because it might be useful to someone who's contemplating using the same pattern (before I start sewing something I'll always look for how people have interpreted the pattern in question). However, since this is an old and apparently rare pattern (I can't find anything online about it), I'll be brief: I skipped the buttons and buttonholes on the placket, I cut the length somewhere between tunic and dress (to balance out all that volume) and I stitched a jacquard ribbon near the hem.</i><br />
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<i>4. Final notes</i><br />
<i>In regard to photographs... I can't help but feel that there's something a bit ridicule about this whole thing of posing for clothes photos and posting about them on the internet. Some people can get away with it — but me? Not really. So I thought of only showing you the dress on the dress form but that felt a bit short... clothes do get a new life when they are being worn by a person. So here are a couple of outtakes from a photo session we did during our holidays on a hay field.</i><br />
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<i>Anyway, back to the dress. It's a very comfortable potato sack and I'll make it in a better fabric next time.</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com49tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-24041626776838230992015-03-16T21:29:00.000+13:002015-03-16T21:52:25.687+13:00Bolachas Sem Glúten :: Gluten-Free Biscuits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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No mês passado fui passar uma manhã a casa de uma amiga. Como não gosto de aparecer em casa de alguém de mãos a abanar, resolvi levar-lhe umas bolachas. No entanto, a minha escolha de bolachas estava limitada por um factor importante: esta minha amiga não come coisas com glúten. </div>
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Na minha pesquisa online de receitas de bolachas sem glúten, apareceram-me muitas hipóteses com ingredientes estranhos e difíceis de encontrar. Mas não era nada daquilo que eu estava à procura... não me apetecia nada fazer uma receita cheia de substituições — queria simplesmente umas bolachas simples e honestas. A verdade é que cá em casa temos a sorte de não nos termos de preocupar com restrições alimentares (pelo menos por enquanto), por isso toda a ciência por trás das substituições ultrapassa-me... mas conheço um caso grave e nem imagino como deverá ser difícil ter de lidar com alergias perigosas diariamente.</div>
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A certa altura deparei-me com <a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/945295/gluten-free-oatmeal-cookies" target="_blank">esta</a> receita da Martha Stewart. Foi perfeita para a ocasião porque não utiliza farinha de trigo, só aveia, e as bolachas são deliciosas. Deixei de fora as passas e o extracto de baunilha e certifiquei-me de que as bolachas ficaram bem cozidas antes de as tirar do forno (eu normalmente tenho tendência para cozer de menos as bolachas, porque gosto delas relativamente moles, mas estas desfazem-se se não ficarem bem cozidas). </div>
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Na semana passada voltei a fazê-las, desta vez para uma senhora que está muito doente. E, mais uma vez, apercebi-me da razão pela qual gosto tanto de oferecer coisas feitas em casa. Há um envolvimento e um empenho dificilmente equiparáveis ao acto de comprar algo já feito. Claro que não temos necessariamente de fazer bolachas — pode ser uma carta, um desenho, um ramo de flores, uma almofada de alfazema. Ao oferecermos algo feito por nós, estamos a oferecer uma pequena parte de nós próprios. E é isso que torna o presente tão especial.</div>
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<i>Last month I spent a morning at a friend's house. Since I don't like showing up at someone's door without something on my hands, I thought I'd bake her some biscuits. However, my choice of biscuits was limited by a very important factor: my friend doesn't eat gluten.</i></div>
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<i>While I was searching online for a gluten-free recipe, I stumbled upon many options with strange or hard to find ingredients. But that wasn't what I was looking for. I didn't want a recipe full of substitutions — I just wanted to bake simple, honest biscuits. In our family we're incredibly lucky not to have to deal with any allergies (at least for now) so the whole science behind substituting ingredients is very foreign to me... but I do know of one serious case and I can't even imagine what it must be like to have to deal with dangerous allergies everyday.</i></div>
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<i>Eventually I came across <a href="http://www.marthastewart.com/945295/gluten-free-oatmeal-cookies" target="_blank">this</a> Martha Stewart recipe. These cookies are wonderful! I left out both the raisins and the vanilla extract and I made sure the cookies were fully cooked before I took them out of the oven (usually I tend to under-bake cookies because I like them on the softer side but these are too crumbly if they're not well done).</i></div>
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<i>Last week I made them again, this time for a lady who is very sick. And I found myself reflecting once again on why I love giving away homemade things. When we make something for someone with our own hands, there's a special involvement and effort that are hard to compare with something bought in a shop. Of course you don't have to bake if you're not into that —you can write a letter, make a drawing, put together a simple bouquet of flowers, sew a little lavender sachet. When you give away something made with your own hands, you're of giving away a small part of yourself. And that's what makes it so special.</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-84094802813950387132015-03-13T21:02:00.002+13:002015-03-13T21:02:39.423+13:00Coser para Raparigas :: Sewing for Girls<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A Patrícia, que escreve o blog <a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Pequeno Mundo a Três</a> e que organizou o nosso movimento de <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.pt/2015/03/coser-por-uma-boa-causa-sewing-for-good.html" target="_blank">coser por uma boa causa</a>, é mãe de duas pequenitas: uma com três anos e outra que irá nascer muito em breve. Lembrámo-nos de a surpreender com uma espécie de baby shower virtual, em que cada uma de nós escolheu fazer uma ou mais peças para o bebé, para a irmã mais velha e/ou para a mãe.</div>
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Eu fiquei bastante entusiasmada com esta oportunidade de fazer roupa a condizer para as duas irmãs. Gosto muito de coser para os meus rapazes mas, digam o que disserem, coser para raparigas é muito mais giro! </div>
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A minha selecção do tecido e dos modelos não foi imediata, porque nem todos temos o mesmo gosto e tive medo de que a Patrícia não se revisse nas minhas escolhas... Depois de muitas indecisões, resolvi fazer como se fosse para mim e escolhi uma popelina com um padrão muito veranil (espero que a Patrícia não ache aquele amarelo-limão-quase-fluorescente e aquele roxo demasiado avant-garde para um bebé) e dois modelos diferentes de macaquinhos. </div>
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O molde do macaquinho de bebé vem na revista finlandesa <a href="http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2011_3/index.html?de" target="_blank">Ottobre 3/2011</a>. Já o tinha feito no tamanho 9 meses para umas gémeas (<a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/07/macaquinhos-para-gemeas-playsuits-for.html" target="_blank">aqui</a>), mas desta vez experimentei fazê-lo para 3 meses. Acrescentei um vivo no mesmo tom de amarelo do tecido e cosi tudo com <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank">costuras inglesas</a>.</div>
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O molde do macaquinho de criança vem na Burda Style Kids 3/2014 e parece-me ideal para levar para a praia ou para brincar ao ar livre num dia de muito calor. Andei à procura de um cordão amarelo para a cintura mas, como não consegui encontrar nada de jeito, resolvi utilizar a mesma fita de viés que usei para fazer os vivos do macaquinho de bebé. Foi a primeira vez que usei um molde da revista Burda e, passada a confusão inicial, a coisa até nem correu mal.</div>
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Adorei fazer estas duas peças e vou continuar a fazer roupa para raparigas sempre que tenha oportunidade para isso. Muitos parabéns, Patrícia, espero que gostes dos nossos presentes!</div>
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Não deixem de espreitar tudo aquilo o que a <a href="http://www.conversasdehermanas.com/2015/03/baby-shower.html" target="_blank">Rita</a>, a <a href="http://doguincho.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/ive-sewnbaby-clothes-for-first-time-and.html" target="_blank">Marta</a>, a <a href="https://sisforsewing.wordpress.com/2015/03/13/patricias-baby-shower/" target="_blank">Ana Sofia</a>, a <a href="https://lafoliesewingbooth.wordpress.com/?p=624" target="_blank">Inês</a>, a <a href="https://ritapirolita.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Carla</a>, a <a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/patricia-is-having-baby.html" target="_blank">Soraia</a>, a <a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/2015/03/13/baby-shower/" target="_blank">Maria João</a>, a <a href="http://made-by-sara.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/sewing-for-baby.html" target="_blank">Sara</a> e a <a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/baby-shower.html" target="_blank">Magda</a> fizeram!</div>
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<i>Patricia —who writes the blog <a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Pequeno Mundo a Três</a> and who organised our sewing for charity last Christmas — is the mother of two little girls: a 3-year-old one and a little baby who is about to be born. We thought we'd surprise her with a kind of virtual baby shower, where each of us would sew a few gifts for the baby, the older sister and/or the mum.</i></div>
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<i>I was pretty excited about this chance to sew matching clothes for two sisters. I love sewing for my boys but, let's face it, sewing for girls is a lot more fun!</i></div>
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<i>I had some trouble selecting both the fabric and the patterns... Because we humans don't all share the same taste, I was afraid that Patricia wouldn't like my choices. After much indecision I just went with my gut and picked a floral poplin in bright colours (I'm hoping that Patricia won't find that almost-neon-yellow and that purple too avant-garde for a baby) and two different styles of playsuits.</i></div>
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<i>The pattern for the baby playsuit is from the Finnish magazine </i><i><a href="http://www.ottobredesign.com/lehdet_js/2011_3/index.html?de" target="_blank">Ottobre 3/2011</a>. I'd already sewed it once in size 9 months for baby twins (<a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/07/macaquinhos-para-gemeas-playsuits-for.html" target="_blank">blogged</a>) but this time I went with the 3 months sizing. I added piping in the same acid yellow that's featured in the fabric and I<a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/costuras-inglesas-french-seams.html" target="_blank"> French seamed </a>everything.</i></div>
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<i>The pattern for the toddler playsuit is included in Burda Style Kids 3/2014 and I think it's perfect for a trip to the beach or for playing outdoors in a hot day. I searched for a yellow cord for the waist casing but couldn't find anything suitable, so I went with the same bias tape I used to make the piping for the baby playsuit. It was the first time I tried sewing from a Burda pattern and as soon as I conquered my fear, everything went quite smoothly.</i></div>
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<i>Don't forget to check out what <a href="http://www.conversasdehermanas.com/2015/03/baby-shower.html" target="_blank">Rita</a>, <a href="http://doguincho.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/ive-sewnbaby-clothes-for-first-time-and.html" target="_blank">Marta</a>, <a href="https://sisforsewing.wordpress.com/2015/03/13/patricias-baby-shower/" target="_blank">Ana Sofia</a>, <a href="https://lafoliesewingbooth.wordpress.com/?p=624" target="_blank">Inês</a>, <a href="https://ritapirolita.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Carla</a>, <a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/patricia-is-having-baby.html" target="_blank">Soraia</a>, <a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/2015/03/13/baby-shower/" target="_blank">Maria João</a>, <a href="http://made-by-sara.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/sewing-for-baby.html" target="_blank">Sara</a> and <a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/baby-shower.html" target="_blank">Magda</a> have made!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com52tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-61448510085778744432015-03-10T14:04:00.001+13:002015-03-10T14:04:23.328+13:00Me @ Faça Fácil Costura Profissional<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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No último número da revista <a href="http://www.tuttireveditorial.com/site/revistas/index.php?idRevista=21" target="_blank">Faça Fácil Costura Profissional</a> há uma pequena entrevista comigo. Fiquei muito contente por ter recebido este convite e gostei imenso de ver o resultado. Muito obrigada à equipa da Faça Fácil!</div>
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<i>There's an interview with me in the last issue of the Portuguese magazine </i><i><a href="http://www.tuttireveditorial.com/site/revistas/index.php?idRevista=21" target="_blank">Faça Fácil Costura Profissional</a>. I was very happy to get this request and I love how it turned out. Thank you to everyone at Faça Fácil!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com104tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-54411272553027184742015-03-06T14:44:00.000+13:002015-03-06T19:30:36.032+13:00Costuras Inglesas :: French Seams<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hoje vou mostrar-vos como eu faço costuras inglesas. Costuras inglesas (curiosamente, em inglês chamam-se French seams) são costuras que são cosidas duas vezes: primeiro pelo direito e só depois pelo avesso, o que significa que as extremidades do tecido ficam escondidas. Dão mais trabalho do que as costuras normais, mas o resultado é resistente e muito elegante. Resultam bem em linhas direitas ou ligeiramente curvas e são especialmente indicadas para tecidos transparentes, mas eu, desde que aprendi a fazê-las, uso-as sempre que posso.</div>
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<i>Today I'm going to show you how I sew French seams. French seams are sewn twice: first on the right side of the fabric and then on the wrong side of the fabric, which means that the raw edges get completely enclosed. There are a bit more work than regular seams but the result is hardwearing and very elegant. They work well in either straight or slightly curved lines and they're especially suited for sheer fabrics, but ever since I learned how to make them, I use them at every opportunity.</i></div>
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1. Visto que as costuras inglesas são compostas por duas costuras, há que começar por calcular os dois valores/margens de costura. Gosto que a segunda costura fique com 0,5 cm (aprox. 1/4''), por isso, para ficar a saber o valor da primeira costura, subtraio este número (0,5 cm) ao valor de costura original. No caso deste vestido, os valores de costura são 1,5 cm, por isso tenho de fazer a primeira costura com 1 cm e a segunda com 0,5 cm. Em polegadas: costura original 5/8'', primeira costura com 3/8" e segunda com 1/4''.</div>
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<i>1. Since French seams are made of two seams, first you must calculate your two seam allowances. I like for the second seam to measure 0,5 cm (1/4'') so, in order to find out the first seam allowance, I subtract this number (0,5 cm or 1/4'') to the original seam allowance. In the case of this dress, the original seam allowance was 1,5 cm (5/8''), which means that I must sew the first seam 1 cm (3/8'') from the edge of the fabric and the second seam 0,5 cm (1/4'') from the edge.</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">2. Montar a peça avesso com avesso (com o direito para fora — pode parecer contra-intuitivo, mas é assim que funciona) e colocar alfinetes. Coser a primeira costura com ponto corrido apertado (neste caso escolhi 2.0). Passar a ferro a costura tal como foi cosida (isto ajuda a estabilizar os pontos e faz com que as costuras fiquem mais direitas e bem acabadas).</span></div>
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<i>2. Assemble the piece with wrong sides together (the right side of the fabric should be facing you — this may seem counter-intuitive but it's just how it works) and pin in place. Sew the first seam with a running stitch and a short stitch length (for this dress I chose 2.0). Press the seams as they have been sewn (this stabilises the stitching and gets rid of any puckering).</i></div>
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3. Aparar a extremidade do tecido o mais próximo possível da costura (cerca de 2 mm).</div>
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<i>3. Trim the seam allowances as close to the stitching line as you can (about 2 mm or a scant 1/8'').</i></div>
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4. Abrir as costuras com o ferro (o facto de as costuras serem tão estreitas dificulta bastante o processo, por isso às vezes salto este passo).</div>
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<i>4. Press the seam allowances open (the fact that the seams are now so narrow makes this hard so I sometimes skip this step).</i></div>
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5. Virar a peça para o avesso, alinhar bem as costuras e passá-las a ferro. </div>
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<i>5. Turn the piece inside out and then fold the seams with right sides together and press.</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">6. Coser a 0,5 cm (1/4'') da extremidade do tecido. Voltar a engomar as costuras. No caso deste vestido, depois tombei as costuras na direcção das costas. Já está!</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><i>6. Sew 0,5 cm (1/4'') from the edge of the fabric. Press again. In this particular dress, I then pressed the seams towards the back. That's it!</i></span>Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-49607428402611106262015-03-04T13:45:00.001+13:002015-03-04T17:38:00.261+13:00Coser por uma Boa Causa :: Sewing for a Good Cause<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Por altura do Natal passado, a <a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Patrícia</a> desafiou um grupo de bloggers portuguesas a coser por uma boa causa. Mais concretamente, a ideia foi oferecermos uma série de peças feitas à mão à <a href="http://www.mumsandkids.pt/" target="_blank">Mums & Kids</a>, uma instituição que acolhe mães e crianças em situação de risco e exclusão social. </div>
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A Patrícia criou uma tabela com os nomes e idades das crianças em questão, para que pudéssemos fazer algo personalizado para o(s) destinatário(s) que escolhêssemos. Quase todas fizeram roupa (peças fantásticas, espreitem a lista abaixo para verem tudo em pormenor) mas eu, como estava preocupada com o envio dos presentes da NZ para Portugal — especialmente demorado durante o mês de Dezembro — e dado que sou muito lenta a fazer roupa, resolvi fazer umas coisas diferentes. Visto que sou ligeiramente obcecada com o sono infantil, lembrei-me de fazer algo que proporcionasse conforto e segurança àquelas crianças que já passaram por situações tão difíceis durante as suas pequenas vidas. O Rodrigo adora bonecada na hora de ir para a cama, por isso resolvi fazer fronhas divertidas para os mais velhos (5, 3 e 2 anos) e uma manta quente e suave para um dos bebés (8 meses).</div>
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Todos os dias agradeço a vida abençoada que tenho e confesso que me sinto mal por partilhar tão pouco com os outros. Sei que estes presentes são apenas uma gota num vasto oceano de necessidades, mas fico contente por a Patrícia nos ter dado esta oportunidade de trazer um sorriso à vida de algumas crianças e das suas mães.</div>
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Para verem as outras contribuições, espreitem aqui:</div>
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<a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/dar-giving-lucy-tunic.html" target="_blank">Pequeno Mundo a 3</a></div>
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<a href="https://sisforsewing.wordpress.com/2015/03/03/thank-you-obrigada/" target="_blank">S is for Sewing</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.conversasdehermanas.com/2015/03/um-post-diferente.html?showComment=1425427415517#c8722560941492027750" target="_blank">Conversas de Hermanas</a></div>
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<a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/2015/03/03/because-christmas-is-whenever-we-want/" target="_blank">Fairies, Bubbles & Co </a><br />
<a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/charity-sewing.html" target="_blank">House of Estrela</a></div>
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<a href="http://made-by-sara.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/a-red-cape-aka-making-child-happy.html" target="_blank">Made by Sara</a></div>
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<a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/not-so-selfish-sewing.html" target="_blank">Sew Happy</a></div>
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<a href="http://doguincho.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/infitiny-scarfs-for-mums-and-kids.html" target="_blank">Do Guincho</a></div>
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<a href="https://ritapirolita.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Rita Pirolita</a> (infelizmente a Carla não conseguiu escrever um post sobre isto porque perdeu as fotografias do casaco que fez)</div>
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<i>Last Christmas, <a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Patrícia</a> challenged a group of Portuguese bloggers to sew for a good cause. The idea was to give a few handmade things to <a href="http://www.mumsandkids.pt/" style="text-align: justify;" target="_blank">Mums & Kids</a>, a shelter for mothers and children at risk. </i></div>
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<i>Patrícia created a spreadsheet with the children's names and ages so that we could all pick a child and make them something that would suit their age and gender. Almost everyone sewed clothes (amazing pieces of clothing, by the way... check out the list below) but because I am such a slow dressmaker and I was concerned about shipping times — NZ post is exceptionally slow during the holiday season —, I made them something a bit different. Since I'm slightly obsessed with kids' sleeping patterns, I thought I'd sew something that could bring comfort and security to these children who've already been through so much. Rodrigo loves being surrounded with stuffed animals and playful fabrics at bedtime so I decided to make fun pillowcases for the older children (5, 3 and 2 years old) and a warm and snuggly quilt for one of the babies (8 months old).</i></div>
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<i>Everyday I give thanks for my blessed life and I confess that I feel bad for sharing so little with others. I realise these gifts are just a drop in the vast ocean of need but I'm glad that Patricia has given us this chance for bringing a smile to a few mothers' and children's lives.</i></div>
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<i>Check out the other contributions here:</i></div>
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<a href="http://pequenomundoa3.blogspot.co.nz/2015/03/dar-giving-lucy-tunic.html" target="_blank"><i>Pequeno Mundo a 3</i></a></div>
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<a href="https://sisforsewing.wordpress.com/2015/03/03/thank-you-obrigada/" target="_blank"><i>S is for Sewing</i></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.conversasdehermanas.com/2015/03/um-post-diferente.html?showComment=1425427415517#c8722560941492027750" target="_blank"><i>Conversas de Hermanas</i></a></div>
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<i><a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/2015/03/03/because-christmas-is-whenever-we-want/" target="_blank">Fairies, Bubbles & Co </a></i></div>
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<a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/charity-sewing.html" target="_blank"><i>House of Estrela</i></a></div>
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<a href="http://made-by-sara.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/a-red-cape-aka-making-child-happy.html" target="_blank"><i>Made by Sara</i></a></div>
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<i><a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/not-so-selfish-sewing.html" target="_blank">Sew Happy</a></i></div>
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<a href="http://doguincho.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/infitiny-scarfs-for-mums-and-kids.html" target="_blank"><i>Do Guincho</i></a></div>
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<i><a href="https://ritapirolita.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Rita Pirolita</a> (unfortunately Carla has lost the pictures of the coat she made so she couldn't blog about it)</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-81326297634357345252015-03-02T09:45:00.002+13:002015-03-02T09:45:31.224+13:00Alfineteiro Magnético :: Magnetic Pin Holder<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Há muito tempo que me apetecia ter um alfineteiro magnético, mas nunca consegui encontrar um de que gostasse (os clássicos fazem-me sempre lembrar sabonetes). Um dia vi uma imagem de um prato transformado em alfineteiro (terá sido numa revista da Martha Stewart?) e apeteceu-me logo pôr essa ideia em prática. Anos mais tarde, finalmente fi-lo!</div>
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É facílimo: basta comprar dois ou três ímans fortes e colá-los com Super Cola 3 debaixo de um prato ou de uma pequena tigela. Fiz dois: um para estar sempre ao lado da máquina de costura e outro para cima da tábua de engomar ou da mesa de corte. Estou rendida ao alfineteiro magnético!</div>
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<i>I've wanted a magnetic pin holder for ages but I've never managed to find an attractive one (the classic shape always makes me think of soap). One day I saw a picture </i><i>(in a Martha Stewart magazine?) </i><i>of a saucer turned into a pincushion and I immediately thought I'd put that idea into action one day. Years later, I've finally done it!</i></div>
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<i>It couldn't be simpler to make: just buy two or three strong magnets and glue them under a saucer/small bowl with Super Glue. I made two: one lives next to the sewing machine and the other one travels from the ironing board to the cutting table. I'm loving my magnetic pin holders!</i></div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-79636759614419967902015-02-26T21:36:00.002+13:002015-02-28T09:18:35.155+13:00Comidas e Bebidas Infantis :: Kids' Party Food and Drink<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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No meu último <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/02/festa-dos-3-anos-3rd-birthday-party.html" target="_blank">post</a> contei-vos como montei a festa do Rodrigo, hoje vou falar-vos na comida. Devo dizer que, no que toca a festas infantis, eu parei nos anos 80. Não há grandes sofisticações por aqui — as minhas escolhas recaíram em memórias de infância e em sugestões de algumas amigas sensatas com filhos mais velhos que os meus, bem como naquilo que o Rodrigo me pediu. A saber:</div>
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- sanduíches de queijo: como cá não há daquelas bolinhas enfarinhadas óptimas, usei pão de forma e cortei as sanduíches com um cortador de bolachas em forma de flor;</div>
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- salame de chocolate (uma iguaria desconhecida aqui na NZ): em vez de fazer um rolo grande, fiz três pequenos, que depois cortei em rodelas e servi em cima de formas de papel (segui <a href="http://www.mundodereceitasbimby.com.pt/receitas/2499/salame-de-chocolate.html" target="_blank">esta</a> receita com pequenas alterações);</div>
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- bolachas em forma de número 3: experimentei uma <a href="http://www.inkatrinaskitchen.com/2011/12/best-sugar-cookie-recipe-and-kitchenaid_28.html" target="_blank">receita</a> nova de bolachas de manteiga e gostei mais desta do que daquela que usei para as <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2014/12/biscoitos-de-natal-christmas-biscuits.html" target="_blank">bolachas de Natal</a>. Como cobertura, fiz uma pasta de icing sugar e água e depois salpiquei-as com sprinkles coloridos.</div>
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- espetadas de morangos e mirtilos;</div>
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- quartos de gelatina de laranja: o grande clássico das festas infantis dos anos 80. Lembram-se disto? A minha mãe fazia-os sempre. Cortam-se as laranjas ao meio e, depois de espremidas, enchem-se com gelatina acabada de fazer. Põem-se no frigorífico e, no dia seguinte, cortam-se aos quartos usando uma faca bem afiada. Na semana anterior à festa experimentei fazer uma versão mais saudável com sumo de laranja e gelatina natural em pó (cá não há folhas) e ficou horrível (juro que sabia a bife), por isso acabei por usar gelatina de pacote;</div>
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- uma taça de smarties;</div>
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- sumo de laranja (feito com todas aquelas laranjas que espremi para fazer os quartos de gelatina);</div>
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- sumo de melancia e framboesa (receita deste <a href="http://www.wook.pt/ficha/cozinha-para-dias-felizes/a/id/14386299" target="_blank">livro</a> — obrigada, <a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Soraia</a>, pela sugestão);</div>
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- água.</div>
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Para a festa cá em casa, o Rodrigo pediu-me um "bolo amarelo com morangos", por isso fiz-lhe um <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2012/11/pao-de-lo-portuguese-sponge-cake.html" target="_blank">pão-de-ló</a> coberto com chantilly caseiro e morangos. Mas quem escolheu o bolo para levar para a escola fui eu! Fiz-lhe um bolo de chocolate e laranja numa forma que aluguei na padaria aqui da vila, e depois cobri-o com smarties (a ideia veio <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/323414816966596554/" target="_blank">daqui</a>). Segui <a href="http://www.jamieoliver.com/recipes/chocolate-recipes/children-s-party-cake/#dzxvBAfDs6fzUHk9.97" target="_blank">esta</a> receita mas acrescentei mais duas ou três colheres de sopa de icing sugar à cobertura, de maneira a torná-la mais espessa (para que os smarties se aguentassem no sítio).</div>
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<i>OK, so I've told you about Rodrigo's <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2015/02/festa-dos-3-anos-3rd-birthday-party.html" target="_blank">party</a> set up — now let's hear about the food and drink! I must say that when it comes to children's parties, I'm proudly stuck in the 80s. There are no elaborate affairs around here — I based my choices on childhood memories and suggestions given to me by no-nonsense friends who have older kids, as well as Rodrigo's requests. Here goes:</i></div>
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<i>- cheese sandwiches: just sliced bread and cheese, which we then cut out using a flower shaped cookie cutter; </i></div>
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<i>- chocolate salami: this is a childhood staple in Portugal — you make a dough using powdered chocolate, egg yolks, sugar and Marie biscuits, you shape it like a log before putting it in the fridge for at least 12 hours and then you slice it up. I made 3 slim logs instead of a thick one and placed each small rounded slice on a mini muffin paper case;</i></div>
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<i>- number 3 biscuits: I tried out a new <a href="http://www.inkatrinaskitchen.com/2011/12/best-sugar-cookie-recipe-and-kitchenaid_28.html" target="_blank">recipe</a> for sugar biscuits and liked it much more than the one I used for my <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2014/12/biscoitos-de-natal-christmas-biscuits.html" target="_blank">Christmas biscuits</a>. I iced them with a simple paste of icing sugar and water and then we scattered lots of colourful sprinkles on top.</i></div>
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<i>- strawberry and blueberry skewers;</i></div>
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<i>- orange jelly quarters: this was a great classic in Portuguese kids' parties back in the 80s. My mother always made them! You cut the oranges in half, squeeze out the juice and then fill the empty shells with hot orange jelly. Then they go in the fridge to set and the following day you slice them up into quarters. A few days before the party I made a trial run with a healthy version of the jelly (real orange juice and powdered unflavoured gelatine — I couldn't find any gelatine leaves) and it turned out absolutely revolting (it literally tasted like beef), so I just went with the packaged stuff instead [jell-o].</i></div>
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<i>- a bowl of smarties;</i></div>
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<i>- orange juice (from all those oranges I used for the jelly quarters);</i></div>
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<i>- watermelon and raspberry juice (recipe from this <a href="http://www.wook.pt/ficha/cozinha-para-dias-felizes/a/id/14386299" target="_blank">book</a> — thank you, <a href="http://sewhappysew.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Soraia</a>, for the suggestion);</i></div>
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<i>- water.</i></div>
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<i>Rodrigo asked for a "yellow cake with strawberries" so I made him <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2012/11/pao-de-lo-portuguese-sponge-cake.html" target="_blank">pão-de-ló</a> (Portuguese sponge cake) covered with whipped cream and topped with a handful of strawberries. However, the cake he took to preschool was chosen by me... and I went to town with it! Inspired by <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/323414816966596554/" target="_blank">this</a> cake, I rented a number 3 tin from our local bakery and baked a chocolate and orange cake, which I then covered in smarties. I followed <a href="http://www.jamieoliver.com/recipes/chocolate-recipes/children-s-party-cake/#dzxvBAfDs6fzUHk9.97" target="_blank">this</a> recipe but added another 2 or 3 tablespoons of icing sugar to the chocolate topping (in order to make it thicker so that the smarties would stick properly to the cake).</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
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Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-17479484878641065582015-02-23T13:22:00.000+13:002015-02-23T13:53:59.581+13:00Festa dos 3 Anos :: 3rd Birthday Party<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Para a festa dos 3 anos do Rodrigo fiz um pequeno arraial aqui no nosso jardim. O tempo não estava nada de especial — se tivesse sido em Portugal, acho que nunca teria feito a festa lá fora, mas visto que estes kiwis são bastante mais resistentes ao vento e às temperaturas baixas do que nós portugueses, resolvi arriscar e acabei por não me arrepender. As crianças divertem-se sempre muito mais fora de casa, não acham?</div>
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O nosso jardim é a descer e tem vários patamares. No primeiro criei um recanto com colchões, almofadas, poufs, um tapete e alguns brinquedos e livros. No patamar seguinte coloquei duas mesas, uma com comida e a outra com bebidas (amanhã mostro-vos os comes e bebes em pormenor). As decorações de papel são todas portuguesas (as mesmas que usei quando fiz um <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/06/dia-de-santo-antonio-st-anthonys-day.html" target="_blank">Santo António</a> dentro de casa, lembram-se?).</div>
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Foi uma festa bastante simples mas muito colorida, com tudo feito em casa conforme os gostos e pedidos do Rodrigo. Ele estava entusiasmadíssimo e fartou-se de ajudar, gostei imenso de assistir à alegria e ao empenho dele. Para o ano há mais!</div>
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<i>Rodrigo's 3rd birthday party was a Portuguese-inspired garden party at home. The weather wasn't great — had this been in Portugal I would never had set up everything outside but since Kiwis are much more tolerant of wind and low temperatures than us Portuguese, I decided to risk it and I'm so glad I did. Children always have more fun outdoors, don't you think?</i></div>
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<i>Our garden is on a slope and it has different levels. On the first level I created a sitting and playing area with a couple of mattresses, some cushions, bean bags, a rug and a few toys and books. On the next level I placed two tables with food and drinks (I'll tell you more about that tomorrow). The paper decorations are all Portuguese (the same ones I used when I once celebrated <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2011/06/dia-de-santo-antonio-st-anthonys-day.html" target="_blank">St. Anthony's day</a> indoors, do you remember?).</i></div>
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<i>It was a simple affair but a colourful one. I made everything according with Rodrigo's tastes and requests, he was so excited! He was so helpful, committed and happy, it was truly lovely to watch. </i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
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Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-69214590520081944072015-02-14T22:12:00.003+13:002015-02-14T22:12:40.259+13:00Por Aqui :: Around Here<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Por aqui as últimas semanas têm sido bastante preenchidas. O Pedro fez 6 meses e o Rodrigo fez 3 anos, arranjámos dois armários, cosi bastante, acolhemos uma visita inglesa e organizei a minha primeira festa infantil. Agora vamos de férias de para a praia (esperemos que o tempo seja nosso amigo) e estarei de volta daqui a uma semana. Até breve!</div>
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<i>Around here these last few weeks have been filled with happy things. Pedro turned 6 months and Rodrigo is now a 3-year-old, we revamped two cupboards, I sewed a lot, we had an English guest and I threw my very first children's party. Now we're going on holidays to the beach (let's hope the weather is nice) and I'll be back here next week. See you soon!</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
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Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-86973245728718606422015-02-05T14:33:00.003+13:002015-02-05T14:35:23.280+13:00Refashion :: Boy to Girl Dungarees<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Quando estava grávida do Pedro, comprei estas jardineiras numa loja de caridade aqui das redondezas — achei que, por apenas NZD$2, ficava com uma peça de roupa clássica e fresca (o tecido é bem mais fino do que parece nas fotografias). No entanto, quando — meses mais tarde — fui buscar à garagem toda a roupa de bebé, encontrei umas jardineiras quase iguais... por isso, pus estas de parte e não pensei mais no assunto.</div>
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Há uns tempos perguntaram-me no <a href="https://www.facebook.com/constanca.cabral.creative.homemaking?ref=hl" target="_blank">Facebook</a> se eu tinha ideias para transformar a roupa de rapaz em roupa de rapariga (por exemplo, quando as irmãs ou primas mais novas herdam a roupa dos rapazes mais velhos). Apesar de achar que as raparigas podem perfeitamente usar as mesmas roupas que os rapazes, sobretudo se essas peças forem misturadas com outras mais femininas, fiquei a pensar na pergunta. E, uns dias mais tarde, resolvi responder ao desafio.</div>
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<i>When I was pregnant with Pedro I bought these dungarees in a local charity shop — I figured that, for only NZD$2, I was getting a timeless and cool piece of clothing (the fabric is actually much thinner than it looks in the photos). However, when — a few months later — I rummaged through all the baby clothes that I had stashed away in the garage, I found an almost identical pair... so I put these aside and forgot about them.</i></div>
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<i>A few weeks ago, someone asked me on my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/constanca.cabral.creative.homemaking?ref=hl" target="_blank">Facebook page</a> for ideas on how to transform boys' clothes into girls' clothes (i.e. when a younger sister inherits her older brother's clothes). Even though I believe that girls can wear the same clothes as boys, especially if they're mixed with some more feminine items, the question got me thinking. And, a few days later, I decided I was up for the challenge.</i></div>
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Escolhi um tecido florido nos mesmos tons das jardineiras (<a href="http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/departmenthome/dept/fabrics" target="_blank">Liberty</a> é sempre uma aposta segura) e usei-o para fazer as alças, o bolso central e as abas dos botões na cintura, assim como para debruar as pernas e os bolsos atrás. Também substituí os botões, fechei a braguilha e aproveitei para aplicar molas entre as pernas (<a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/06/molas-para-mudar-fraldas-how-to-add.html" target="_blank">assim</a>). </div>
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Fiz esta transformação a pensar no bebé de uma grande amiga minha que, por coincidência, nasceu hoje. Bem-vinda ao mundo, querida Maria do Mar! </div>
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[claro que não resisti a prová-las no Pedro]</div>
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<i>I picked a floral fabric in the same tones as the original dungarees (you can never go wrong with some <a href="http://www.liberty.co.uk/fcp/departmenthome/dept/fabrics" target="_blank">Liberty</a>) and used it to make new straps, button tabs and the front pocket, as well as binding for the legs and back pockets. I also replaced the buttons, stitched over the faux fly and added snap tape for easier nappy changing (<a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/06/molas-para-mudar-fraldas-how-to-add.html" target="_blank">tutorial</a>).</i></div>
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<i>I made these alterations for the baby of a great friend of mine, who (by coincidence) was born today. Welcome to the world, dearest Maria do Mar!</i></div>
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<i>[of course I couldn't resist trying them on Pedro]</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)<br />
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Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-30411998095810075792015-02-03T15:54:00.001+13:002015-02-05T21:03:51.197+13:00Oliver + S Bucket Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Voltei a fazer um chapéu para o Rodrigo com o molde (gratuito) <a href="http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/reversible-bucket-hat/" target="_blank">Reversible Bucket Hat</a>. Este foi o quarto bucket hat que fiz para ele (podem ver as versões para 6 meses <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2012/08/oliver-s-reversible-bucket-hat.html" target="_blank">aqui</a> e para 1 ano e meio <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.pt/2013/09/praia-beach.html" target="_blank">aqui</a>) e tenho a certeza de que não terá sido o último. </div>
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Não sigo as instruções à letra, porque evito coser à mão sempre que consigo arranjar uma alternativa. Neste caso, a alternativa é construir o chapéu como se de um saco se tratasse: fazer o exterior, fazer o forro, colocá-los um dentro do outro, direito com direito, coser a toda a volta deixando uma abertura, virar para o direito e pespontar. Também incluo sempre um elástico — tanto a Nova Zelândia como Portugal são países ventosos (embora o vento na NZ esteja noutro campeonato) e, apesar de o elástico não ser muito bonito, prefiro ver o chapéu na cabeça do Rodrigo do que no chão. É certo que, com a inclusão do elástico, o chapéu deixa de ser reversível, mas dado que fiz o forro igual à parte de fora do chapéu...</div>
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Já experimentaram este molde? Dá para adaptar a rapazes e raparigas e funciona sempre. Recomendo-o vivamente!</div>
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<i>I've made another </i><i><a href="http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/reversible-bucket-hat/" target="_blank">Reversible Bucket Hat</a> (free pattern) for Rodrigo. It's the fourth bucket hat I've made so far (check out the previous versions at <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2012/08/oliver-s-reversible-bucket-hat.html" target="_blank">6 months</a> and <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.pt/2013/09/praia-beach.html" target="_blank">1.5 years</a> old) and I'm sure this one hasn't been the last.</i></div>
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<i>I don't follow the instructions to the letter because I avoid hand-sewing whenever I can find a suitable alternative. In this case, the alternative is to construct the hat as if it were a bag: you make the exterior and the lining separately, sew them right sides together, leaving a small opening, then turn the whole thing through the opening and topstitch all around the brim. I also like to include a piece of elastic, as both New Zealand and Portugal are windy countries (although NZ clearly wins in the wind department). Even though the elastic isn't exactly pretty, I'd rather see the hat on Rodrigo's head than on the floor. It's a fact that the inclusion of the elastic prevents the hat from being reversible but since I used the same fabric on the exterior and on the lining...</i></div>
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<i>Have you ever used this pattern? You can easily adapt it suit to boys and girls alike and it always turns out great. I highly recommend it!</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-90527794403867779762015-01-29T13:52:00.000+13:002015-01-29T16:39:47.852+13:00Arranjo de Flores à la Bollywod :: Bollywood-Style Flower Arrangement<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Nesta casa onde agora vivemos, tivemos a sorte de ter herdado um jardim já plenamente estabelecido e cheio de flores diferentes. A antiga dona da casa fartou-se de plantar flores de que gosto imenso, como rosas antigas e sardinheiras perfumadas, mas também escolheu algumas flores que não são bem o meu género — o que é perfeitamente normal, não temos de ter todos os mesmos gostos! Aliás, até tem graça porque assim tenho oportunidade para mexer em flores que nunca teria escolhido à partida, e tentar fazer algo que me agrade com elas. Sair da nossa zona de conforto é sempre positivo, não acham?</div>
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<i>In our current house we've been lucky enough to inherited a fully established garden filled with exciting flowers. The previous owner planted loads of flowers I absolutely love, like old-fashioned roses and scented pelargoniums, but she also planted ones that aren't exactly my style — which is fine, of course, as we don't all have to have the same taste! It's actually a fun challenge to have access to flowers I wouldn't have chosen myself, and try to make them work. Getting out of one's comfort zone is a good thing, right?</i></div>
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Então o que fazer com flores de que não gostamos? Deixá-las morrer no canteiro? Isso é que não! Por exemplo, não sou grande fã destas dálias encarnadas e cor-de-laranja (gosto de outro tipo de dálias, mas estas cores não me convencem). Mas estava decidida a fazer alguma coisa com elas, por isso dei uma volta pelo jardim e apanhei outras flores e folhas que as complementassem, que puxassem pelas cores e formas destas dálias, de maneira a pôr em evidência o seu melhor.</div>
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<i>So what to do with the flowers one doesn't love? Leave them to die in the garden? Of course not! For example, I'm not a big fan of these red and orange dahlias (something to do with the colours... I do like other types of dahlias) but I was decided to make something with them. So I strolled around the garden and picked a few things that would complement them — things that would make the dahlias pop.</i></div>
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Escolhi cores-de-rosa fortes e verdes-ácidos, assim como cabeças de papoilas e outras flores que ainda não estavam completamente formadas. Misturei tudo dentro de uma caneca de estanho e, quando dei por mim, tinha um arranjo bem ao estilo Bollywood!</div>
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<i>I chose bright pinks and acid greens, along with some seed pods and a few immature flowers. I mixed it all in a pewter mug and suddenly I had created a Bollywood-style arrangement!</i></div>
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À laia de conclusão: quando não gostamos de alguma coisa, muitas vezes a melhor maneira de fazer com que ela resulte é chamar a atenção para ela, em vez de tentar escondê-la. Uhm... isto é capaz de ser uma tirada demasiado profunda para um simples arranjo de flores!</div>
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<i>My conclusion is, when you don't like something, sometimes the best way to make it work is by drawing attention to it, instead of trying to hide it. Mmmm... that's quite a statement considering we're talking about a simple flower arrangement!</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">(photos: </span><i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i><span style="text-align: justify;">Constança Cabral)</span>Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-70787407755627014942015-01-22T23:07:00.001+13:002015-01-22T23:21:42.348+13:00Lullaby Layette Bodysuit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Gosto de ir mantendo o blog relativamente diversificado, mas ultimamente só me apetece coser! Já percebi que gosto muito mais de coser no Verão do que no Inverno e tenho sentido uma enorme urgência em fazer roupa para o Pedro. Como já aqui disse, agora sei como este primeiro ano passa depressa e esta é a minha oportunidade de lhe fazer coisas de bebé... daqui a um ano já será um rapazinho e a roupa dos rapazes não é muito variada. Sorte a das mães que cosem para raparigas!... Hoje vou falar-vos neste fatinho que fiz para ele.</div>
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1. Molde</div>
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<a href="http://oliverands.com/product/OLV-OS046LL1.html" target="_blank">Lullaby Layette Bodysuit</a>, mais uma vez da marca <a href="http://oliverands.com/" target="_blank">Oliver + S</a> (sem dúvida, os meus moldes preferidos). Este molde inclui também umas calças, uma camisa e um casaco, mas aquilo que me fez comprá-lo foi o bodysuit. Gosto muito de bebés vestidos com peças inteiras: acho que não há nada mais prático e, por mais que se mexam, continuam sempre com tudo no sítio.</div>
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2. Tamanho</div>
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O Pedro tem 5 meses e meio, por isso escolhi o tamanho 6-12 meses, mas o fatinho já está pequeno. Já me tinha apercebido de que o Rodrigo é, tal como eu, comprido de tronco, e pelos vistos o Pedro é igual. Vou experimentar alterar o molde, de forma a acrescentar-lhe apenas comprimento na zona da barriga. </div>
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3. Tecido</div>
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Usei um algodão fino mas bastante "crisp" (como hei-de descrever em português o toque do tecido? É suave mas com bastante corpo, assim como um tecido de camisa). Não me lembro onde o comprei, acho que foi em Staffordshire, numa loja de tecidos que tinha imensos retalhos a óptimos preços. </div>
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4. Alterações</div>
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Em primeiro lugar, usei botões em vez de molas de pressão. Na parte de baixo correu tudo bem, mas na carcela tive alguns problemas — devo-me ter enganado a medir os botões de pé e as casas ficaram pequenas. Pequeno detalhe: só me apercebi disso depois de as ter aberto! Como é que dei a volta à situação? Descosi-as e fiz umas maiores. Achei que não perderia nada em tentar.. e não é que correu bem?<br />
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Outra pequena alteração que fiz foi engomar o macho nas costas de maneira a que ficasse aberto a meio (inverted box pleat), em vez de o ter tombado para o lado, como diziam as instruções. Ah, também cosi os lados com costuras inglesas (tenho mesmo de fazer um post sobre esta técnica de que gosto tanto) e não segui as instruções para debruar o colarinho, porque prefiro coser primeiro a fita de viés pelo avesso, para depois a pespontar pelo direito.<br />
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5. Notas finais<br />
Este molde é impecável mas a minha execução não foi das melhores, sobretudo porque tive o Rodrigo sempre em cima de mim (ver fotografia abaixo).<br />
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Acho que o molde é facilmente personalizável e apetece-me experimentar uma série de versões diferentes. Fiz uns esboços rápidos das minhas ideias (não liguem à minha falta de jeito): acrescentar uma gola redonda, um colarinho à Mao ou até uma gola franzida de bordado inglês; tentar manipular as pregas, de maneira a eliminá-las, ou transformá-las em pequenas pinças ou mesmo substituí-las por smocks; passar a abertura para trás; fazê-lo numa malha às riscas estilo <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2014/05/oliver-s-sailboat-top.html" target="_blank">bretão</a>. Será que vou ter tempo para tudo isto? </div>
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<i>I like to keep the blog relatively diversified but lately all I want to do is sew. Over the years I've realised that I enjoy sewing much more in summer than winter, and lately I've been feeling a great urgency in sewing clothes for Pedro. As I've said before, now I know how quickly this first year goes by and this is my chance to make him baby-ish things... next year he'll be a little boy and boys clothes isn't all that varied. How lucky are the mothers who sew for girls?... Today I'm going to tell you about this little romper suit I made for him.</i></div>
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<i>1. Pattern</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://oliverands.com/product/OLV-OS046LL1.html" target="_blank">Lullaby Layette Bodysuit</a>, again by <a href="http://oliverands.com/" target="_blank">Oliver + S</a> (my favourite patterns, without a doubt). This pattern also includes a shirt, a jacket and a pair of trousers, but what prompted me to buy it was the bodysuit. I love babies dressed in one-piece garments: it's so practical and no matter how much they wriggle, their clothes are always tucked in nicely. </i><br />
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<i>2. Sizing</i><br />
<i>Pedro is now 5 and a half months so I cut size 6-12 months... but unfortunately the bodysuit is already too small. Apparently, Pedro — just like Rodrigo and I — has a long torso. I'm going to try to alter the pattern by lengthening it slightly in the belly area.</i><br />
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<i>3. Fabric</i><br />
<i>I used a fine but crisp cotton that I think I bought in Staffordshire, at a fabric shop that used to sell lots of well-priced remnants.</i><br />
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<i>4. Alterations</i><br />
<i>To start with, I used buttons instead of snaps. In the nappy area everything went fine but I encountered a major problem in the placket — I must have measured the shank buttons incorrectly and the buttonholes turned out much too small. Minor detail: I only realised they were too small after I opened them! So what did I do? I unstitched them and then I stitched longer ones. I figured I had nothing to loose and it actually worked!</i><br />
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<i>The other small alteration I made was to press the pleat in the back as an inverted box pleat, instead of pressing it to one side as the instructions said. Oh and I used French seams for the sides and I didn't really follow the steps for binding the collar because I like to sew the bias tape on the wrong side first and then topstitch it on the right side.</i><br />
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<i>5. Final notes</i><br />
<i>This is an impeccable pattern but my execution wasn't exactly top notch, mainly because I had Rodrigo on my lap (and on the table) most of the time (see above picture).</i><br />
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<i>This is a very customisable pattern and I'm urging to try it in lots of different versions. I made a quick sketch of my ideas (please disregard my poor illustration skills): adding a collar (Peter Pan, Mao or just a ruffled broderie anglaise edging); trying to manipulate the pleats in order to either eliminate them or replace them with small pin tucks or smocking; making the placket in the back; sewing it in <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2014/05/oliver-s-sailboat-top.html" target="_blank">breton-style knit</a>. Will I have enough time to try all this?</i><br />
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-32300707762100134092015-01-20T13:35:00.000+13:002015-01-20T14:16:41.598+13:00Refashion Week :: From Shirts to Shorts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A <a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Magda</a> desafiou-me para participar na Refashion Week, juntamente com uma série de outras bloggers, todas elas portuguesas! Qual foi a primeira coisa em que pensei? Aproveitar camisas, claro! </div>
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Com a chegada do Verão, o Rodrigo estava a precisar de pijamas frescos. À semelhança daquilo que fiz <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/pijamas-de-verao-summer-pyjamas.html" target="_blank">há dois anos</a>, aproveitei camisas do meu pai e do Tiago para fazer-lhe quatro pares de calções, mas desta vez usei um molde diferente: os <a href="http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/sunny-day-shorts/" target="_blank">Sunny Day Shorts</a> do Oliver + S. </div>
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O molde é gratuito mas não deixa de ser impecável (os moldes Oliver + S são irrepreensíveis). As únicas alterações que fiz foram: 1- coser tudo com costuras inglesas e 2- arredondar um bocado a frente dos calções, porque o gancho era demasiado grande e fazia uma espécie de fole. Usei o tamanho 4 anos para o Rodrigo, que vai fazer 3 anos daqui a um mês (o primeiro par que fiz — e que não fotografei — foi com o tamanho 3 anos e achei que estavam bons agora, mas não serviriam daqui a seis meses... e quero que os calções voltem a ser usados durante o Verão português).</div>
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Dá gosto fazer costuras assim! Hoje em dia acho que ninguém cose para poupar dinheiro, mas este projecto é daqueles em que só se gasta linha, electricidade e tempo. E é tão bom vê-lo a usar calções confortáveis, frescos e com bom corte, e pensar que os fiz com materiais reciclados. </div>
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Como sabem, farto-me de aproveitar camisas de homem — um dia tenho de fazer um post com um apanhado de tudo aquilo que já fiz — porque os tecidos são excelentes e, muito francamente, de graça! Para fazer cada um destes calções usei apenas as costas e uma manga de cada camisa. Com o que sobrou, ainda consegui fazer uns quantos babetes para o Pedro.</div>
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Obrigada, Magda, pelo convite para participar na tua série! Para verem mais reciclagens criativas de um grupo de bloggers talentosas, não deixem de visitar o <a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">blog</a> ao longo desta semana. E espreitem aquilo que a <a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Maria João</a> fez hoje!</div>
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<i><a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Magda</a> invited me to take part in her Refashion Week, along with a handful of other Portuguese bloggers. What was the first thing that occurred to me when I read her email? Upcycling shirts, of course!</i></div>
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<i>It's been hot around here and Rodrigo was in need of some cool pyjamas. Just like I did <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/08/pijamas-de-verao-summer-pyjamas.html" target="_blank">two years ago</a>, I turned a bunch of old men's shirts into pj bottoms, but this time I used a different pattern: Oliver + S <a href="http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/sunny-day-shorts/" target="_blank">Sunny Day Shorts</a>.</i></div>
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<i>It's a free pattern but that doesn't mean that it's any less perfect that the other Oliver + S patterns. The only alterations I made were: 1- I French-seamed (is that a verb?) everything; 2- the front was sitting too high and that was causing some odd folds, so I lowered it a bit by cutting a soft rounded line across the front (I eyeballed this). I sewed size 4 for Rodrigo, who's turning 3 next month. I started by sewing size 3 (not pictured here) but even though they were fine for now, I know that in 6 months time they'll no longer fit (and he'll need them for the Portuguese summer).</i></div>
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<i>I find this type of sewing incredibly satisfying. I guess nowadays no-one sews in order to save money but this is one of those projects where you only consume thread, electricity and your time. And it feels great to see your children wearing comfortable, crisp and well-cut clothes that have been made using up recycled materials.</i></div>
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<i>As you know, I'm always upcycling men's shirts — I must to post a round-up of everything I've made so far — because they're a source of great quality fabrics and, let's be honest, it's free fabric! To make each of these shorts I only used the back of the shirt and one sleeve. </i><i>With the leftovers I made bibs for Pedro!</i></div>
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<i>Thanks, Magda, for inviting me to play along with you. If you'd like to see what the other talented bloggers have created, don't miss Magda's <a href="http://houseofestrela.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">blog</a> updates this week. And check out what <a href="https://fairiesbubblesco.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Maria João</a> has come up with today!</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-44902688098185797392015-01-12T21:01:00.002+13:002015-01-12T21:01:15.278+13:00Por Aqui :: Around Here<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Por aqui é Verão. Nuns dias está sol, noutros chove, mas está quase sempre quente e húmido. O Rodrigo esteve de férias e fartou-se de brincar, ver livros, ouvir música, cozinhar, cantar e rir. O Pedro continua a crescer bem, sempre com bom feitio. O nosso jardim está ao rubro e temos comido aquilo que não interessa aos pássaros e aos caracóis (ultimamente framboesas, alfaces e ervas aromáticas).</div>
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Gosto muito de ir fotografando alguns momentos do nosso dia-a-dia para depois compor estes posts (que depois suplemento com fotografias do Tiago) mas acho que, de vez em quando, tenho de fazer lembrar que estas imagens só mostram parte da realidade. Não vos mostro a desarrumação crónica, as camas por fazer, as birras do Rodrigo, o nosso cansaço, a confusão instalada na minha cabeça. Aquele almoço com o Rodrigo no jardim, por exemplo, foi sol de pouca dura: ele estava a portar-se tão mal que, passados dois minutos, viemos para dentro de casa. Isso não significa que a fotografia seja falsa — aquele momento aconteceu, sim, mas não durou muito tempo.</div>
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Porque é que estou a escrever algo tão óbvio? É que, por vezes, há quem não perceba que o meu blog é uma colecção de momentos felizes, que quero guardar para sempre na minha memória e que gosto de partilhar com as pessoas que me acompanham. É uma partilha virtual, é certo, mas não deixa de ser importante para mim. Se vivêssemos em Lisboa, será que mostraria tantas fotografias dos nossos filhos? Acho que não. Mas moramos longíssimo e custa-me não poder partilhar com outras pessoas a infância dos meus filhos.</div>
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Também me perguntam como conseguimos fazer tanta coisa com duas crianças pequenas e quase sem ajuda. A resposta é simples: demoramos imenso tempo a fazer o que quer que seja. O corredor de nossa casa foi pintado em quatro fases, que se prolongaram durante ano e meio, e eu ando há cinco meses para escrever um post sobre o assunto. Se eu gostava de voltar a escrever quatro ou cinco vezes por semana no blog? Claro que sim, mas nesta altura é-me impossível porque simplesmente não tenho tempo.</div>
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Tenho muitos planos para 2015, sendo que o mais importante — depois do bem-estar da minha família, claro — é contribuir mais para o orçamento familiar. Tenho algumas ideias que espero conseguir pôr em prática, mas adoraria ouvir as vossas sugestões. Que produtos gostariam que eu lançasse? Se tiverem um bocadinho livre, escrevam as vossas sugestões nos comentários ou, melhor ainda, enviem-mas por email. Muito obrigada!</div>
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<i>It's summer around here. Some days it rains, other times the sun shines, but it's almost always hot and humid. Rodrigo's school was closed for a few weeks and he enjoyed himself at home: he played, read books, listened to music, cooked, sang and laughed a lot. Pedro keeps on growing and he's such a happy chap, always in a good mood. Our garden is thriving and we've been eating the things birds and snails don't seem to enjoy too much (lately it's been raspberries, lettuces and herbs).</i></div>
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<i>In order to compose these "around here" posts, I like taking pictures of certain moments in our everyday life and then I supplement them with photos taken by Tiago. However, I feel that, from time to time, I must remind you that these images are just a part of our reality. I don't show you the constant state of untidiness, the unmade beds, Rodrigo's tantrums, our tiredness or the mess that lives inside my head. For instance, that lunch in the garden with Rodrigo only lasted for two minutes: he was behaving so badly that we quickly came back inside. That doesn't mean that the image is a lie — that moment did happen but it was extremely short-lived.</i></div>
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<i>Why am I stating the obvious? Well, sometimes people don't seem to understand that my blog is a collection of happy moments, moments I want to keep in my memory and moments that I enjoy sharing with others. It's a virtual kind of sharing, for sure, but it's sharing nonetheless. Would I post so many pictures of my children if we lived in Lisbon? I don't think so. But we live incredibly far away from home and I find it hard not being able to share the boys' childhood with anyone.</i></div>
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<i>I'm also asked often how we manage to do so much with two kids and very little help. The answer is simple: it takes us an awfully long time to make anything. Our corridor was painted in four stages over a year and a half and I've been wanting to blog about it for five months now. Would I like to go back to blogging four or five times a week? I would, actually, but right know that's impossible because I simply don't have the time.</i></div>
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<i>I've got lots of things planned for 2015 and the most important one — besides taking care of my family — is to contribute more to the family's finances. I've got a few ideas that I'd love to execute but I'd really like to hear your thoughts on this. What would you like me to offer? If you have a minute, write up some suggestions in the comment section below or, even better, shoot me an email. Thank you very much!</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
<span id="goog_1194391300"></span>Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com45tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-52908929173021742922015-01-08T17:59:00.005+13:002015-01-08T19:29:01.041+13:00Mulberry Tunic :: An Upcycled Men's Shirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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(do avesso :: <i>inside out</i>)</div>
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Estou contentíssima com esta camisa de Verão que fiz para o Rodrigo. Ficou fresca, confortável e, simultaneamente, arranjadinha q.b. Ele também gostou!</div>
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1. O molde</div>
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<a href="http://www.willowandcopatterns.com/products/mulberry-tunic" target="_blank">Mulberry Tunic</a> da Olga do blog <a href="http://olga-kidapproved.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Kid Approved</a>. Este molde tem algumas variações: mangas curtas ou compridas, bolsos e um capuz. É um molde digital (quando o compramos, recebemos um ficheiro PDF por email) e vai dos 18 meses aos 12 anos.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fd7qdwL_M8o/VK3XGgwHFoI/AAAAAAAAU6I/kB_4j6R1S4I/s1600/mulberry%2Btechnical.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fd7qdwL_M8o/VK3XGgwHFoI/AAAAAAAAU6I/kB_4j6R1S4I/s1600/mulberry%2Btechnical.jpg" height="332" width="640" /></a></div>
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2. A minha versão</div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Fiz a versão que gastava menos tecido (já vos vou dizer porquê): mangas curtas, sem bolsos nem capuz. Fiz as presilhas das mangas mais curtas (diminuí-lhes 2,5 cm no comprimento) e fiquei rendida às dobras das mangas, que são feitas de uma maneira muito engenhosa. O remate do colarinho não foi cortado em viés — mas sim num ângulo esquisito entre 45º e 90º, porque não havia tecido suficiente —, daí ter ficado um bocadinho ondulado (mas isto é um preciosismo... quase nem se nota, sobretudo porque o Rodrigo nunca está quieto!). Cosi os lados com costuras inglesas, o meu acabamento preferido.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">3. O tamanho</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Fiz o tamanho 3 anos para o Rodrigo, que vai fazer 3 anos daqui a um mês. Fica-lhe impecável, mesmo à medida.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">4. O tecido</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Reutilizei uma camisa fil-à-fil do meu pai, daí o tecido ter sido tão à conta! Era uma camisa clássica para usar com gravata, mas o colarinho já estava muito esgarçado e acho que já tinha sido virado uma vez. Como sabem, farto-me de aproveitar camisas de homem para tudo e mais alguma coisa, e o tecido desta era tão bom que tinha mesmo de ser utilizado para algo especial. Estas são as minhas reciclagens preferidas: aquelas em que se consegue tirar o máximo partido da peça original, mas o resultado não fica com ar de reaproveitamento. Os botões madrepérola vieram de outra camisa.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">5. Notas finais</span></div>
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Devo confessar que hesitei um bocado antes de comprar este molde, porque aquela costura a meio ali à frente não me convencia... Percebo a razão porque ela existe: é uma maneira fácil de fazer uma carcela até meio, para dar à camisa um ar de túnica — e eu, como costureira autodidata e com pouco traquejo nesta arte da confecção, agradeço a intenção. Mas, como o molde ficou em saldos antes do Natal, resolvi arriscar. Ainda bem que o fiz! Gosto imenso do resultado, acho que a costura nem se nota e fartei-me de aprender com as instruções. Agora quero fazer uma versão de Outono com mangas curtas e capuz.</div>
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<i>I'm really happy with this summer shirt I made for Rodrigo. It turned out great: cool, comfortable and not too dressy but not too casual either. He approves!</i></div>
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<i>1. The pattern</i></div>
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<i><a href="http://www.willowandcopatterns.com/products/mulberry-tunic" target="_blank">Mulberry Tunic</a> by Olga from the blog <a href="http://olga-kidapproved.blogspot.co.nz/" target="_blank">Kid Approved</a>. This pattern offers a few variations: short or long sleeves, pockets and a hood. It's a digital pattern (which means that you get a PDF file on your email inbox) and it's sized from 18 months to 12 years.</i></div>
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<i>2. My version</i></div>
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<i>I made the version that used up less fabric (more on that later): short sleeves, no pockets and no hood. I made the sleeve tabs 1'' shorter than the original ones and I was really pleased with the fold on the sleeves, it's really clever. I didn't manage to cut the tape for the collar on the bias because I didn't have enough fabric — I was forced to cut it in a funny angle somewhere between 45º and 90º, and that's why it doesn't lay completely flat (but since Rodrigo never sits still, you'll never notice it). I used French seams for the sides of the shirt.</i></div>
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<i>3. The size</i></div>
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<i>I made a size 3 for Rodrigo, who's turning 3 next month. The fit is perfect.</i></div>
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<i>4. The fabric</i></div>
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<i>I upcycled a fil-a-fil shirt that used to belong to my father. It was one of those classic shirts to wear with a tie but the collar was getting old and I think it had already been turned once. As you know, I love breathing new life into old clothes and this shirt's fabric was really high quality, so I had to use it to make something special. This is my favourite kind of recycling: where you're able to make the most of the original piece but the result doesn't look like "making do". The shell buttons came from another shirt.</i></div>
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<i>5. Final notes</i></div>
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<i>I confess that I hesitated a bit before buying this pattern because of that front horizontal seam. I guess I know why it's there: it makes the whole job of sewing the half placket a lot easier — and I, as a self-taught sewer and a beginner in the art of dressmaking, undoubtedly appreciate the intention. But when the pattern went on sale before Christmas, I decided to give it a go. Well, I'm glad I did! I love how the tunic turned out, the aforementioned seam doesn't bother me at all and I learned a lot from Olga's instructions. Now I want to make an autumn version with long sleeves and a hood.</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-81960526010880858822015-01-07T13:58:00.001+13:002015-01-07T13:58:13.909+13:00Macaquinho de Verão :: Summer Romper<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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O Verão finalmente chegou à Nova Zelândia e eu quero aproveitar todos os momentos! A chegada do calor foi a desculpa perfeita para fazer um macaquinho para o Pedro. Apesar de o Pedro ter herdado toda a roupa do Rodrigo e não precisar de muita roupa nova, estou apostada em fazer-lhe algumas peças enquanto ele é bebé, porque agora sei como este primeiro ano passa depressa. Para além disso, sempre que sigo instruções sinto que aprendo alguma coisa, e isso é divertido e útil!</div>
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1. O molde</div>
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Style 4137, um molde de 1984 que encontrei numa loja de caridade ao pé de minha casa. Procurei referências a esta marca de moldes na internet mas não encontrei nada. As explicações são características dos moldes mais antigos: relativamente sucintas, a assumir conhecimentos prévios e a pedir acabamentos feitos à mão (não há um único pesponto à máquina neste fatinho). A única alteração que fiz foi <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/06/molas-para-mudar-fraldas-how-to-add.html" target="_blank">acrescentar molas</a> entre as pernas, para ser mais fácil mudar a fralda.</div>
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2. O tecido </div>
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Um <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seersucker" target="_blank">seersucker</a> (crepon) que comprei no <a href="http://armazemdoslinhos.myshopify.com/" target="_blank">Armazém dos Linhos</a> (uma loja de visita obrigatória no Porto: para além de uma enorme variedade de chitas portuguesas, tem muitos tecidos de confecção). Gosto imenso de ver bebés (rapazes e raparigas) vestidos de cinzento-claro, e nem hesitei quando vi este tecido à venda. O plano era fazer uns calções a condizer para o Rodrigo, mas não comprei tecido suficiente...<br />
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3. O tamanho<br />
Estes moldes antigos normalmente só têm um tamanho (ao contrário dos moldes modernos, que incluem vários tamanhos num só envelope). Este tamanho é para 6 meses e fica mesmo à medida do Pedro, que acabou de fazer 5 meses.<br />
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4. Notas finais<br />
Gosto muito deste modelo absolutamente intemporal e o molde é bastante bom. Como cá estamos no Verão, visto-o por cima de um body branco de mangas curtas ou de uma camisa, ou sem nada por baixo nos dias de muito calor. Se fosse Inverno, podê-lo-ia ter feito num tecido mais quente (uma fazenda fininha ou uma vaiela), para ser vestido por cima de uma camisola e de uns collants.<br />
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<i>Summer is finally here and I intent to make the most of it! The arrival of warmer weather was the perfect excuse to whip up a little romper for Pedro. Even though Pedro has inherited all of Rodrigo's clothes and isn't in need of much else, I really want to sew a few pieces for him because now I know how quickly the first year goes by. In addition to that, every time I follow a pattern I learn something new, and that's fun and useful!</i><br />
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<i>1. The pattern</i><br />
<i>Style 4137, a pattern from 1984 that I found at a local charity shop. I searched online for information regarding this pattern company but found nothing about it. The instructions are typical of this older patterns, in that they are short, assume a lot of prior knowledge and require hand-finishing (there isn't any topstitching on this romper). The only alteration I made was <a href="http://saidosdaconcha.blogspot.co.nz/2013/06/molas-para-mudar-fraldas-how-to-add.html" target="_blank">adding snaps</a> for easier nappy changing.</i><br />
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<i>2. The fabric</i><br />
<i>Gingham <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seersucker" target="_blank">seersucker</a> bought at <a href="http://armazemdoslinhos.myshopify.com/" target="_blank">Armazém dos Linhos</a> (a fabric shop in Porto, Portugal, that mustn't be missed as it's full of traditional Portuguese fabrics and a nice selection of dressmaking materials). I love seeing babies (both boys and girls) dressed in light grey so I snapped up this print as soon as I laid eyes on it. The original plan was to make matching shorts for Rodrigo but unfortunately I didn't buy enough fabric for that...</i><br />
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<i>3. The size</i><br />
<i>These old patterns usually only come in one size (as opposed to modern sewing patterns that are multisized). This one is for 6 months and it fits Pedro (who's just turned 5 months) perfectly.</i><br />
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<i>4. Final notes</i><br />
<i>I love this timeless style for babies and this pattern is great. As it's summer right now, Pedro will wear it over a white short-sleeved bodysuit or shirt, or — if it gets really hot — with nothing underneath. If it were winter I would have made it in a thicker fabric (either wool or viyella), to be worn over a wool cardigan and a pair of tights. </i><br />
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1283951137108775686.post-16221648189007499182015-01-04T09:41:00.002+13:002015-01-04T09:41:30.399+13:00Olá 2015! :: Hello 2015!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Bom ano para todos! Que 2015 nos traga muitas aventuras e momentos cheios de alegria. Cá estão os meus rapazes com as toilettes de ano novo, que só acabei no dia 1 à noite... para a semana escrevo sobre elas. Bom fim-de-semana!</div>
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<i>Happy new year, everyone! May 2015 bring us all kinds of adventures and joyful moments. Here are my boys with their new year's outfits, which I only finished sewing on the evening of the 1st... next week I'll tell you all about them. Have a lovely weekend!</i></div>
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(photos: <i style="text-align: start;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 16px;">© </span></span></i>Constança Cabral)</div>
Conchahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01149886331153813631noreply@blogger.com17