22 April 2015

Vestido de Baptizado :: Christening Gown


Durante as últimas semanas andei ocupada a fazer o vestido de baptizado do Pedro — aliás, todo o "ensemble", porque fiz o vestido propriamente dito, o vestido interior, a touca e o babete (este último  não aparece nestas fotografias porque foi feito na véspera do grande dia e, mal foi posto a uso, ficou imediatamente sujo).

Foi o projecto mais elaborado, ambicioso — e, diria até, um bocadinho presunçoso — em que já me meti. Entrei nele com enormes doses de entusiasmo e inconsciência, sem ter propriamente elaborado um plano de acção meticuloso. O resultado é um vestido que me satisfaz cerca de 80%, mas no qual tenho bastante orgulho. Tentei ser o mais perfeita possível na execução e acabamentos — dentro das limitações da minha máquina de 1974, claro. Gosto do vestido? Sim. Adoro o vestido? Não. Gostei de ver o Pedro a ser baptizado com ele? Delirei!

Over the last few weeks I used up every free minute of my time to sew Pedro's christening gown — actually, I should write "christening outfit", really, because I sewed the dress, the slip, the bonnet and even a bib (which isn't pictured here because I sewed it the night before of the big event and it became soiled two seconds after I put it on Pedro).

This was the most elaborate, ambitious — and even a bit presumptuous — project I've even got myself into. I embarked upon it with a great dose of enthusiasm and naivety, without even having set a meticulous plan of action. The result is a dress that I'm 80% happy with but one that, nonetheless, fills me with a sense of pride. I tried to be as neat as I could in terms of constructing and finishing — within the limitations of my 1974 machine, that is. Do I like the dress? Yes, I do. Do I love the dress? No, I don't. Did I enjoy watching Pedro be christened while wearing it? That gave me the greatest pleasure!


Ora então vamos por partes:

1. Motivação
O Tiago e eu fizemos questão de que o Pedro fosse baptizado no país em que nasceu, mas havia o problema do vestido. Era impensável pedir à nossa família que nos enviasse um vestido antigo pelo correio (e se se perdesse?); por outro lado, nem me passou pela cabeça comprar um vestido novo. Posto isto, a única hipótese era ser eu a fazer o vestido. Há um ano assisti  a uma aula de "heirloom sewing" na loja Bernina aqui da zona, onde aprendi as técnicas-base de coser rendas e entremeios bordados. Esta primeira abordagem foi fundamental para desmitificar todo o mundo do "heirloom sewing" e proporcionou-me algumas ferramentas para depois aprofundar o assunto sozinha. Durante alguns meses pesquisei vestidos antigos e técnicas modernas e, a dada altura, resolvi não pensar mais e simplesmente comecei a fazer o vestido.

Let me tell you more:

1. Motivation
Tiago and I were both extremely keen that Pedro should be baptised in the country where he was born... but what about the dress? I didn't have the guts to ask for the family gown to be sent through the post (what if it got lost?) and I didn't consider even for one minute the possibility of buying a new dress. So there was just one option: I had to make it myself. Last year I took an heirloom sewing class at my local Bernina shop, where I learned the basics about sewing laces and embroidered trims. This class was great for demystifying the whole "heirloom sewing" world and gave me a few tools to seek more information on my own. For a few months I researched old dresses and modern techniques and then there came a point where I just had to stop looking and actually start sewing.



2. Planos e materiais
Pensei em algumas opções para o vestido e fiz vários esboços, mas o desenho final acabou por ser totalmente determinado pelas limitações dos materiais ao meu dispôr. Queria que o vestido reflectisse  a herança cultural do Pedro e que nele constassem elementos portugueses, neozelandeses, de família, de amigos, enfim. Estava determinada a bordar, a branco, um motivo central com corações e flores de Viana e fetos nativos da Nova Zelândia mas, com grande pena minha, isso não chegou a acontecer. Talvez se tivesse começado a fazer o vestido três meses mais cedo...

Aqui na Nova Zelândia comprei a cambraia branca, assim como o entremeio de renda e o ajour. O folho em bordado inglês foi-me dado pela minha avó e a renda com que debruei o decote e os punhos foi-me oferecida, há uns anos, por uma amiga brasileira. Os dois outros entremeios bordados foram comprados online. Fiz nervuras no peito e nas mangas com uma agulha dupla e utilizei sempre linha de algodão Mettler 60.

2. Plans and materials
I thought about a few different options but the final design ended up being entirely determined by the limited materials I had at hand. I wanted the dress to be a reflection of Pedro's cultural heritage, with elements that would reference Portugal, New Zealand, family and friends. I was determined to embroider, in white, a central motif with Portuguese folk hearts and flowers and NZ native ferns, but unfortunately I ran out of time. Maybe if I had started working on the dress three months earlier...

Here in NZ I bought the white lawn as well as the lace insertion and the entredeux. The broderie anglaise edging was given to me by my grandmother and the lace edging (or is it tatting?) was a present from a Brazilian friend many years ago. The other two embroidered insertions were bought online. I used a double-needle to make narrow pintucks on the centre front of the dress and on the sleeves and used Mettler 60 cotton thread throughout.




3. Molde
O molde que usei como base foi o Simplicity Babies 2629, vista A com mangas C (este molde é uma reprodução de um molde de 1948, e eu já o tinha experimentado há uns anos). Comecei por fazer um ensaio para ver se o tamanho 6 meses servia ao Pedro e, visto que ficava mesmo à medida, aumentei o comprimento da saia e avancei para o vestido de baptizado. Mas depois as coisas começaram a complicar-se... Quando já ia a meio do vestido, resolvi começar de novo. Apercebi-me de que seria melhor de fazer um vestido ainda mais comprido, de forma a compensar a quantidade de entremeios que resolvi usar (admito que fui gulosa e optei pela bordagem "more is better" em vez do meu habitual "less is more") e completamente aberto atrás (o molde original tem apenas uma pequena abertura atrás, mas cheguei à conclusão de que não seria nada prática para vestir e despir, nem tão pouco eficaz... o facto de o vestido ser todo aberto atrás permitiu-me pegar no Pedro ao colo de maneira a que a frente do vestido continuasse com um bom cair).

3. Pattern 
I based the dress on Simplicity Babies 2629, view A with sleeves C (this pattern is a reproduction from a 1948 one and I had already used it a few years ago). I started by sewing up a test version in order to check the fit of size 6 months and, since it fit well, I just traced a longer skirt and started making the christening gown. But then things got a little more complicated... When I was already half-way through, I decided to start over. I realised that I should make an even longer dress in order to balance out the amount of insertions I ended up including in the fancy band (I admit I was greedy in  wanting to show off all of my pretty trims) and one that had a completely open back (the original pattern features a short placket on the back but I quickly realised that such a small opening wouldn't be very practical when it came to dress and undress the baby, nor would it be very effective... an open back would allow me to handle Pedro much more easily and would prevent bunching up the skirt... I  really wanted that fancy band to drape beautifully!).


4. Técnicas
Comecei por fazer as nervuras com uma agulha dupla e um pé calcador especial (útil, mas nem por sombras obrigatório) em rectângulos de tecido (um grande para o corpo e dois mais pequenos para as mangas), e só depois usei o molde para cortar as peças. As rendas e os bordados foram aplicados com um pé calcador normal, alternando os pontos corrido e zigzag. Consegui utilizar costuras inglesas em tudo, até na inserção das mangas, o que me deixou muito contente. A certa altura debati-me com o facto de as costuras estarem a ficar todas repuxadas mas, depois de ter limpado e oleado a máquina,  mudado de agulha e voltado a enfiar a linha, o problema desapareceu. Apesar de gostar muito da minha máquina quarentona, houve alturas em que desejei ardentemente ter uma máquina moderna toda xpto, não vou mentir. Continuo a achar que há máquinas antigas bestiais (e a minha Bernina Record 830 é uma delas), mas para este tipo de "costura fina", suspeito que uma máquina moderna deva dar um jeitão.

4. Techniques
I pintucked the fabric using a double-needle and a special presser foot (which was useful, but not compulsory) before I even cut out the pattern, which means that I roughly cut one large and two smaller rectangles, pintucked them and only then did I cut out the pattern pieces for the front and for the sleeves. I sewed the laces, the entredeux and the embroidered trims with a regular foot, alternating between straight and zigzag stitching. I managed to French-seam the entire thing, even the sleeves, and that made me feel very happy and smug. I did struggle with puckered seams for a while but after I cleaned and oiled the machine, changed the needle and rethreaded it, things got much easier. Even though I love my 41-year-old machine, there were times when I felt a burning desire for a modern, top-of-the-line sewing machine, I'm not going to lie. I still believe that there are some wonderful vintage sewing machines out there (and my Bernina Record 830 is definitely one of them), but for this kind of "fine sewing" I suspect a modern machine must come in handy.


5. Acessórios
O vestido interior foi feito com base no mesmo molde, desta vez a vista F com algumas modificações. A touca é baseada num modelo antigo, também com modificações. Para ficar a condizer com o vestido, cosi-lhe umas quantas nervuras e apliquei-lhe um dos entremeios bordados que usei na barra da saia, assim como a mesma renda com que debruei o decote e os punhos.

5. Accessories
The slip was cut using view F the same pattern, with a few alterations. The bonnet was based on a vintage pattern, with a few tweaks of my own. In order for it to match the dress, I included one of the trims I used on the skirt, as well as a few pintucks and the same lace edging used on the collar and sleeves.



6. Balanço
O que me aborrece:
- O facto de o entremeio mais largo da barra do vestido não ser tão branco como os restantes (o quarto onde coso é um bocado escuro e só me apercebi do contraste quando vi estas fotografias).
- Não ter conseguido fazer o famigerado bordado — o vestido foi todo desenhado em função desse bordado e, se tivesse decidido logo à partida que não teria tempo para o fazer, acho que teria desenhado um vestido diferente.
- Ter estado tão limitada com os materiais.
- Ter cosido o vestido à pressa (por culpa minha) e com inúmeras e frustrantes interrupções (perfeitamente normais... fazem parte de ter dois filhos pequenos).

O que me alegra:
- Fiz um vestido de baptizado! 
- Esforcei-me imenso e fartei-me de aprender.
- A filha de uma amiga minha ganhou dois vestidos novos (depois mostro-vos os ensaios em pormenor noutro post).

Agora estou a precisar de umas férias! 

6. Final assessment
Things that bother me:
- The fact that the widest eyelet insertion on the fancy band is not as white as the other trims (my sewing room is rather dark and I only noticed the contrast when I looked at these photos).
- Not having done the whitework — especially because that was the "raison d'être" of this dress. Had I decided straight away that I wouldn't have time to make the embroidery, I think I would have designed a different dress.
- Being so limited by the materials I had.
- Having sewn the dress in such a race against time (my fault entirely) and the constant and oh so frustrating interruptions (that are perfectly natural and come with having two young children).

Things that make me happy:
- I made a christening gown!
- I strove to do my best and learned so much.
- My friend's little daughter will get two new dresses (I'll talk about my trials runs in detail on another blog post).

Now I need a break!


128 comments:

  1. Beautiful! Child and gown.I admire the way you dress your children.Classic with a touch of modern.Just the way I tried to dress my daughters And grandchildren.Well done. Precious memories will come from your ensemble.Penny Auckland NZ

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  2. Está lindo Constança, os pormenores são maravilhosos. Talvez com o tempo te possas dedicar ao bordado, quem sabe inspirada pelos teus netos <3

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  3. Constança! Ficou LINDO!!!!Que inveja!!!!!! Muitos parabéns!! Beijinhos

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  4. Já tinha comentado no Instragan mas apesar de tudo que diz Constança o vestido está maravilhoso,vê-se que foi feito com muito amor dedicação um beijo grande e vá sim de férias bem metecidas.Seja muito feliz.

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  5. Perfeito! Concha por favor coloque aqui a decoração, aquelas mesas estavam o céu!

    Uma Beijoca
    http://dinis-like-the-king.blogspot.pt/

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  6. Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho, Constança. Gosto particularmente da touca. Se eu alguma vez vestiria alguma coisa do género aos meus filhos? Nunca na vida! Mas acho bonito que mantenha essas tradições, se para si fazem sentido.
    Clara

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  7. Ficou lindoooooooo!!! Parabéns pelo amor que dedicou a cada pontinho que deu! Este vestido emocionou-me, para além de maravilhoso, é uma história de amor...
    Beijinhos,
    Cristina

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  8. Concha, tudo o que descreveste faz parte de uma história linda que há-de ser partilhada pelas gerações futuras da tua família. E acho que faz parte de uma herança, ou de um conto, acrescentar um ponto... talvez no futuro acrescentes o bordado ou ensines um elemento da tua família a fazê-lo :) Isto é uma obra fabulosa, não só pelo vestido em si mas por tudo o que o envolve. Parabéns!!!

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  9. Está lindo, maravilhoso, tens todos os motivos para estares orgulhosa e tenho a certeza que daqui a uns anos o Pedro também vai ter muito orgulho :-)

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  10. Oh meu Deus! Adorei este post!! Deste lado nós vemos duas coisas: um vestido cosido de amor e um crescimento enorme em ti! Jus à frase "Não sabendo que era impossível, ele foi lá e fez." (atribuída a Jean Cocteau). Parabéns!

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  11. Parabéns Constança! O vestido ficou Lindo! Adorei o resultado final e ele ficou um amor nele!

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  12. Nós todas, que estamos de fora, vemos aquilo que é este vestido - perfeição!!
    Tiveste a coragem e uma boa dose de loucura, juntaste o teu talento, a tua paixão pela costura, pelo feito-à-mão e pela tradição, e o amor pelo teu filho. Todas as grandes coisas da vida, todos os grandes feitos, resultam destes ingredientes. Este vestido é algo que ficará na História da tua família, das gerações que vêm a seguir. Well done my friend! You are amazing.

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  13. Ficou lindo. Parabéns! Este com certeza ficará guardado para a posteridade... e isto é emocionante...

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  14. Um trabalho incrível Constança. Não é para qualquer um por isso tens mesmo que te sentir orgulhosa do vestido.

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  15. Um trabalho incrível Constança. Não é para qualquer um por isso tens mesmo que te sentir orgulhosa do vestido.

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  16. Estas de parabens! O vestido nao podia ter ficado mais bonito. E é tao bom e tao especial ter sigo feito por ti... Criaste um vestido de baptizado de familia!

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  17. Que vestido maravilhoso Constança e que história fantástica a da sua criação. Estas são as peças que guardamos mais perto do coração, pelo que nos ensinam, pelo que nos exigem mas também pelo amor com que se fazem. Parabéns querida Constança! <3

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  18. Amor é dedicação à família é o que vejo. Um dia para recordar com tanto amor e história, uma fita daqui um entremeio dali, que ternura que estafou. Bom descanso!! Parabéns pela atitude e persistência noa sonhos mesmo com dois pequenos que ocupam grande parte do tempo!! Parabéns Constanca

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  19. That photo made me catch my breath! So beautiful! Your baby is the most lovely child and you did a wonderful job on his gown. Congrats!

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  20. Muitos parabéns pela dedicação e pela partilha. Muitas felicidades.

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  21. Parabéns pela empreitada!! Ficou lindo!!!

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  22. Parabéns pela empreitada!! Ficou lindo!!!

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  23. Parabéns pela empreitada!! Ficou lindo!!!

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  24. I think it is just beautiful, truly beautiful and made by your own hands. What could be better? And Pedro looks very happy wearing it too. I hope you had a wonderful ceremony & celebration.
    Michelle

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  25. Já tive oportunidade de o dizer - está maravilhoso!! Não sei se teria coragem de me lançar numa empreitada semelhante (mas adorava!), e mereceu certamente todos os minutos (horas e dias) que dedicaste a ele. Ficou perfeito e todos os detalhes, desde a ideia até ao último acessório, farão certamente parte da história da vossa família (emoção). Parabéns Constança e obrigada por nos mostrares que costurar com amor é realmente o mais importante <3

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  26. Franchement, cet ensemble est très réussi! Quel beau travail même si vos frustrations sont compréhensibles, c'est souvent le cas quand on se sent pris par le temps! Maintenant, vous allez pouvoir la broder tranquillement avant le prochain baptême!!!! Vos enfants sont radieux et très chics!

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  27. Maybe you could start creating and selling heirloom christening gowns in your etsy shop ;)

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  28. Cara Amica, è da tanto tempo che ti seguo. Voglio dirti che hai due figli meravigliosi, sempre sorridenti. Oltre ad essere una bravissima sarta (crei cose bellissime e perfette), devi essere anche una splendida mamma! Continua così, avrai grandi soddisfazioni nella vita da parte di questi due bimbi!!! Un bacione, Serena.

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  29. Cosntança, muitos parabéns!
    O vestido é lindíssimo e tem um valor inestimável :)

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  30. Adorei! O vestido, a touca tudo.
    O Pedro ficou todo catita e o mano está muito giro.
    Bjs

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  31. Parabéns... Pelo lindo vestido e por tudo o que ele significa.

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  32. O resultado final é maravilhoso!
    Parabéns por todo o processo, pelo vestido e acessórios e pela forma clara, precisa e sempre sincera e entusiasmante com que sempre somos brindados nas descrições!

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  33. Nunca fiz nenhum comentário mas desta vez não resisto! Parabéns, o vestido está lindo. Mas acima de tudo o seu significado é inexplicável! Quem sabe se o bordado se acrescentará para o 3º filho :) ou então para os netos!

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  34. Não seja tão rigorosa consigo mesma. O vestido ficou muito bonito, vestiu lindamente o Pedro que para sempre poderá se lembrar que foi a mãe quem lhe costurou a roupa do batizado. E, talvez quando seu neto usá-lo, você possa apreciar quão belo ficou, e quanto carinho foi empenhado.
    Bjs

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  35. Ainda que atrasada desejo à Pedro uma vida em Cristo, muitas alegrias e desejos satisfeitos.

    À ti , meus parabéns, pela obra de muito esmero e dedicação, como tudo que empreendes . Fitas e nervuras lindas. A touca um mimo!

    Ao papai e ao mano meus parabéns, que, com certeza, estão muito felizes de fazer parte de uma família amorosa.
    Uma bela data, uma bela família! Felicidades🌿
    S. O.
    Rio

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  36. Dear Concha,

    you can be very very proud of your dress. It is surely one of the most beautiful christening dresses! Even though there are some things that bother you, I can assure you that you are the only person to notice. And Pedro will treasure this dress and will use it for his own children because his mommy has made it with so much love!!!

    Greetings to NZ, Claudia

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  37. Muitos parabéns. É um vestido mágico, único. Pense só no privilégio que é ter na família um vestido com uma história tão bonita. Os seus filhos , os seus netos e bisnetos vão adorar, estou certa que sim.

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  38. What you're saying is completely true. I know that everybody must say the same thing, but I just think that you put it in a way that everyone can understand. I'm sure you'll reach so many people with what you've got to say.

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  39. A really lovely christening gown, you can be very proud of it, the things you don't like just stop it from looking mass-produced. Both the boys look to be thriving.

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  40. A really lovely christening gown, you can be very proud of it, the things you don't like just stop it from looking mass-produced. Both the boys look to be thriving.

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  41. O resultado é belíssimo.
    Parabéns!!
    Um dia também me vou aventurar num projeto assim.

    http://realizatumesmo.blogspot.pt/

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  42. Olá Constança, ficou lindo o vestido. Nem se nota a diferença de cor do entremeio. Adorei. Já há algum tempo que não visitava o teu blog e sinceramente fiquei maravilhada com o vestido.

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  43. QUE PRECIOSO EL VESTIDO!!!
    Y EL BEBE UN ENCANTO.
    SALUDITOS

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